Ross Leidy

I made 3 variations of the jig for drilling the bolt holes in both the ends of the stretchers and into the side assemblies. The first one was just ...

The visible front edge of the seat frame is a full 1" thick, but tapers to 3/4" thick on the back side. The sides and back of the frame are all 3/4...

This step is out of order compared to the actual sequence of the build, but it seemed to make sense to present it now.  The back receives a set of ...

To cut the mortises for the stretchers (front/rear lower stretchers and upper rear stretcher), I needed a couple more jigs.  In these, I used a com...

With the router jigs for the side assemblies completed, I could get to work cutting some mortises.     Cutting the mortise for the lower rear stre...

(Originally posted in October 2022) In the summer of 2022, I started a project to replace the skirting around the perimeter of my deck using 5/4 p...

The wing knobs and T-bolts from the last post were working well for the cam clamps, but one thing I thought would make them better is if I could in...

One challenge of fastening to the aluminum channel is that it doesn't work well with regular t-track bolts, which can spin freely in the channel.  ...

Yesterday evening, I cut out the parts for the long version of the clamps and got one assembled. [20230324-IMG_7799.jpg] On the first test, the t...

The previous plunger clamp functioned great, but it seemed a bit wide for what it needed to do.  For rev. 2, I slimmed it down.  Instead of the sli...

One of the things I really like about the Sea-N-Sea clamp is that its clamping pad pushes against the work instead of the cam so there's no tendenc...

The Sea-N-Sea clamps worked great, but they had some downsides: • Multi-part assembly - not complicated, but they take time to knock out. • With th...