Ross Leidy

With the base glue-up completed, I placed the staves on it see how they looked together.  That thing is looking way too thick.  Maybe it will look ...

I started with some cherry, surfaced down to just under 1 inch thick, edged glued two pieces for the necessary width, which would then be cut in ha...

The original lamps had upper and lower sockets and a 4-way switch so that either bulb or both bulbs could be illuminated.  I'll be using LED strips...

I found a few cone calculators online that will give you the details of the flat pattern to use that will roll into the desired cone shape.  I used...

The thickness of the staves of the original lamp gently narrow from bottom to top.   Ordinarily, I would do that tapering prior to shaping the edge...

My homework prior to making the staves was to work out how to join them at 120 degrees to each other and allow for lamp pipe to pass through the ce...

Arthur Jacobs designed many interesting and unusual lamps for Modeline in the 50's and 60's.  This particular floor lamp design has always caught m...

With a bit of finish, the clock will be complete and ready for use.  For the hub, I wanted to retain the whiteness of the holly, so I finished it w...

In keeping with the all-wood theme, I thought I'd see if I could make the wood hands as well.   To mimic the black hands of the original, I found j...

Before I can apply finished, I need to take care of a couple things - address the gap in the hub veneer and plug the holes in the end of the spikes...

I have a large selection of veneer due to having made custom table tennis paddles for years.  But for this clock where the form is the star (litera...

The hub is built from 5 disks cut from scrap plywood on the CNC.  The layer that will be the face of the clock is a full disk with a recess for the...