With a bit of finish, the clock will be complete and ready for use.  For the hub, I wanted to retain the whiteness of the holly, so I finished it w...
In keeping with the all-wood theme, I thought I'd see if I could make the wood hands as well.   To mimic the black hands of the original, I found j...
Before I can apply finished, I need to take care of a couple things - address the gap in the hub veneer and plug the holes in the end of the spikes...
I have a large selection of veneer due to having made custom table tennis paddles for years.  But for this clock where the form is the star (litera...
The hub is built from 5 disks cut from scrap plywood on the CNC.  The layer that will be the face of the clock is a full disk with a recess for the...
This jig will be used to cut the radius on the base of each spike using a router table with a tall pattern bit installed. I started with a plywood...
I searched for "prior art" for cutting compound tapers like these, but I couldn't find anything that did what I needed.  This is the idea I came up...
For a while, I've had in my head to build a replica of a George Nelson's sunburst clock.  Designed in the late 40's, it definitely has that "atomic...
Glue-up was simple enough - a couple strap clamps and one bar clamp over cork pads to pull the joints tight for the back stretcher.  [20251023-IMG...
I used a 3/8" radius round over bit to shape the stretchers.  To avoid tear-out where cutting (nearly) end grain in some areas, I made multiple pas...
I've been kicking around ideas on how to fasten the chair shell to the stretchers, and I think I have the front mounting worked out.   The shell do...
For final fitting of the chair shell to the back stretcher, I spent some time sanding-down the rough fiberglass in that area.  Eventually, the enti...