I'm no stranger to using router templates for flush trimming, but I white-knuckled it with these chair parts. The long curves meant the grain direction could change pretty dramatically over the length of the cut. Even with the bottom/top bearings spiral bit and switching between bottom/top template routing to maintain downhill cutting, I still had many catches. End grain is always a challenge, and traversing an abrupt curve on end grain while keeping the bearing in contact the template is doubly challenging. I had a number of scary catches.
No pics, but I started by tracing the template shapes onto the blanks and rough cutting them out on the bandsaw. I tried to keep the cut proud by 1/16" or so.
The curve of the sectioned back stile had areas that were semi-end grain. It got a little grabby when flush cutting in places, but it wasn't too bad.
Flush trimming the arm and seat components went pretty smoothly, even traversing the narrow ends went pretty well. I took those ends slow, using one hand closest to the bit to press the part down against the table and act as a pivot point while using the outboard hand to lever the work slowly around the tip. If you can keep the bearing tight on the template and move really slowly, you can minimize any catches.
Where I started having real problems was flush trimming these narrow pieces that will build-up the arm width (template not shown).
I wasn't even attempting to trim around the tip of these parts. I was just trimming the bulk of the long edges when I got this bad catch. This massacre could have been avoided if I had just looked underneath to check the grain direction. At this point, I had switched to a different spiral bit with a bearing only on the end, which I did because I wanted its longer cutting length. Bad move. For the rest of these parts, I made some very light (controlled) climb cuts along the length to remove the bulk of the excess, followed by a regular cut to clean it up. The climb cuts are harder to control, but have less tear-out.
Fortunately, I was able to press that tear-out back down with a couple clamps and wick-in some low viscosity CA glue to lock the fibers back in place.
I'll clean-up the ends at the oscillating sander where I didn't want to risk flush trim routing.
That's all the squared-off shaping of the long parts.
The remaining parts (primarily the stretchers) I'll be able to cut on the CNC and avoid the scary router table.
i cringed just reading what happened and with the pic's. i always hate flush trimming. main thing is keep the amount to be removed as little as possible, like a 1/16" if possible. when i did my G&G wall table doing the handles and some other parts i had some real scary catches !!! your parts are looking real good so far ross.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
Yeah, template cutting on oak is challenging! I do about the same as you Ross. Cut close with the bandsaw, then make small passes without bearing contact to nibble away at the difficult sections. A top/bottom bearing bit that is sharp is a must. I'll use whatever top bearing I have that has the length for a full cut and borrow a bearing and collar so I can turn it into a top/bottom. Pencil marks where I'll flip the part to stay "downhill".
Those scarf areas are a worst case! I'll try to nibble uphill to peck away what I can with a kung-fu grip! Sanding the end grain noses is a great idea!
I appreciate the comments, guys. I feel like there's an opportunity here to start a template routing support group. 😁 I think my template routing would go much better if only I could remember all of the lessons of the past rather than getting sloppy and re-learning them all over again.
Do you have a pin in your router table? That may help you keep the piece stable as use the pattern bit. Instead of just resting against the bearing, having 2 points can make it easier.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
good point nathan, a router pin is a definite must using templates as something to rest the template againts when staring the cut ! one thing sam maloof used on all his templates i noticed when i was in his shop was they all had a big rounded end so he could start the template before cutting into wood. great idea and much safer because he had a large shaper with a "big" trim routing bit on it. but he was shaping 8/4 walnut on templates. i was afraid to even look at it 😬
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
I just went through this myself. I'd recommend clamping your template and work to a larger flat (like ply wood) with handles. I found holding the leg template with finger tips (narrow) very hard on the hands.
Potts is right trim as much as possible off the blank.
I've never tried it but I've seen a band saw template jig that helps you get a consistent and small amount to trim off that might help too. A quick search found this link.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Lazyman commented about 17 hours ago Do you have a pin in your router table? That may help you keep the piece stable as use the pattern bit. Instead of just resting against the bearing, having 2 points can make it easier.
Nathan, that particular router table (which I generally use for flush cutting) isn't outfitted with a pin. My other router table has one, though. I may need to switch over to that one next time.
Pottz commented about 16 hours ago good point nathan, a router pin is a definite must using templates as something to rest the template againts when staring the cut ! one thing sam maloof used on all his templates i noticed when i was in his shop was they all had a big rounded end so he could start the template before cutting into wood. great idea and much safer because he had a large shaper with a "big" trim routing bit on it. but he was shaping 8/4 walnut on templates. i was afraid to even look at it 😬
What a great privilege to have been to Maloof's shop. Very cool. The rounded ends on the templates sounds like a genius idea. That certainly would have saved me.
I just went through this myself. I'd recommend clamping your template and work to a larger flat (like ply wood) with handles. I found holding the leg template with finger tips (narrow) very hard on the hands.
Potts is right trim as much as possible off the blank.
Good idea. I did have a death grip on the narrow work, and notices my hands aching a bit later in the day. I'll keep that tip in mind.
I did try to keep the trimming to within a 1/16" of the line, but admittedly my cut line wandered some.
BTW, a tip that I cannot remember where I saw it: When cutting a line or close to it, rub the back of the blade against the side of the area already cut and it is easier to follow the line. It surprised me how much easier it is, regardless of how straight or curvy.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Hi Ty, I'm glad you dropped by. What a privilege to be able to see one of the dolphin chairs in person. I'd be reaching for my tape measure to get some dimensions. :) Hopefully, I'll bring the chair project to a successful conclusion.
What are you up to these days? Any recent projects to report?
Hi Ty, I'm glad you dropped by. What a privilege to be able to see one of the dolphin chairs in person. I'd be reaching for my tape measure to get some dimensions. :) Hopefully, I'll bring the chair project to a successful conclusion.
What are you up to these days? Any recent projects to report?
I did not bring a tape measure that day, unfortunately, but brought a lot of inspiration back home.
Have not built that much furniture the lately. Or rather, have built successors to previous designs, lots of gifts and more-practial-than-nice things , helping friends on their projects etc. And have done a lot of metalworking as well. Did a large batch of cutting boards and attended a local market. Sold ok-ish, and consider doing that again. Problem is that I have filled up my home with self made furniture and do not have room for more... Oh, and received a slightly overhvelming, but heartwarming gift. Wrote about it here: https://www.instagram.com/p/DdCdfZoCGjR/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&stkn=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
"The good chair is a task one is never completely done with" Hans Wegner
Btw, did you find this website? Realy detailed photos of the chair: https://www.lauritz.com/da/auction/hans-j.-wegner-1914-2007.-hvilestol-af-eg-model-jh510-'delfinstolen'/1740886 Have never seen it in its entirely folded state, quite an elegant shape
"The good chair is a task one is never completely done with" Hans Wegner
Ty - good to hear you're keeping busy. I checked out your instagram post, translated of course. What a meaningful gift you received. I tracked-down the "article" that you mentioned in your post, found the PDF, and translated that as well. Congrats on being featured there. Great stuff.
I do have the photos from www.lauritz.com site. I think I used one of them for modeling the side pieces. Yes, the folded chair is quite attractive. Not your ordinary folding chair, for sure.
Quite a detective task you went hrough there.. I apreciated the opportunity to talk about working with our hands with a larger audience. And have received a lot of responce on that, and feel that there is a need to talk a lot more about things that are not digital.
That chair realy is a great design. And a rather elaborate way to make a folding chair. Can clearly see why it was not sold widely - and hold that high prizes now
"The good chair is a task one is never completely done with" Hans Wegner
