For a while now I've been using a free, on-line software called ImageR for getting settings near perfect for etching onto white glazed tiles.
This website allows you to upload an image and it does all the work. You can crop and set the lines per inch and overall dimensions. The big deal is it has filters for all sorts of lasers and other devices to get you to where you want, an image that is laser ready. I used 300 DPI/LPI.
For the TiO2 method described previously, I ran two tests. For the first, I tried some "Marking Paint", the stuff used for marking on grass, concrete, etc. when laying out places to dig or mark buried utilities. The advantage is this stuff is water soluble, easy clean up without chemicals and the mess. Problem is you spray with the nozzle facing down, like spraying whipped cream. Plus the nozzle isn't quite up to snuff like a regular spray can. You'll need a few practice sessions to get the control down. I used about 8" from my tile while spraying.
Anyway, I used two even coats. It takes about 8 hours to dry and I waited about 6 before the second coat and then waited over night before the etch.
Back to the software
The TiO2 method is also known as the "Norton Tile Method". Norton was the first to widely blog about using TiO2 and laser etching. ImageR has a button that will edit your photo with all the settings for this prepped tile. One and done!.
You can do three photos per day for free.
Last thing is to download your modified photo and import into your laser software. I use Lightburn so I imported to the workspace and set my layer to "pass through" which bypasses Lightburn's preprocessing. That has all been taken care of by ImageR.
Here is the finished product on a 6x6" glazed tile
Not too bad! We have blacks and greys with great detail With my 10Watt optical power laser: 50mm/sec, 90% power.
For a second test I used regular spray paint. Rust-oleum 2X Satin Heirloom White. Purportedly 12%-25" TiO2, Among the highest listed. 3 coats, all applied and dry-nuff in about 2 hours waiting for a touch-dry between coats and rotating the tile 90 degrees between coats for evenness.
Also looks good. Since I had three coats I lowered the speed to 40mm/sec to insure bonding. I tried a few other settings and with either spray, faster or lower power will lighten everything and slower or higher power will darken.
Nice work , Bruce. I have been using Omtech spray for Stainless, Brass and copper and it works great. It is $36 a can, though. I rinses right off with water...no brushing needed.
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
The marker paint is about $10 for the tall can. Doesn't exactly rinse off but I just place it in a tub with water and let it soak for a bit before brushing.
With the spray paint I just brush on some old school paint remover. Works great, just messy as all getout. I'd like to spray tempura as it works excellent when brushed on. Tough to get even coats though and spraying should work, but then there is the spray equipment cleanup.
What I like about the TiO2 is it becomes permanently fused into the tile. It can't be wiped off or otherwise scratched away just as with the tiles glaze.
Fun thing is if you look at colored tiles, check the base ceramic from the back. The laser easily can blast away the glaze layer and expose this. A black glazed tile with a light colored substrate can produce neat stuff. Only thing is you can't get any shading (line art/text only)
