Introduction and blank selection - Installment No 1

INTRODUCTION:
In the following series of Pen Making Instructions, you will find the way I make pens...Mike "The Moke" Haeder. 
This blog is NOT here to teach you the basics of penturning...there are a lot of youtubes out there that will do a far better job of that.
Rather it is my way of pen turning and specifically acrylics.  I hope to help with some problems you may already have and eliminate some that may crop up in the future.
It is involved, and I do not take many short cuts.  In fact, I probably do way more than I need.  This is certainly not the only way, it is just the Moke way.  I really do only acrylic pens.  I do some segmented pens with wood, but usually only one per batch, and many times none at all.  The wooden pens have some different procedures and will not be included in this blog. 
This is my first attempt at a blog, so please bear with me...

I have sold a quite a few pens, though I am not selling any more.  These days, in retirement, I still make 125 to 175 per year.  I just give them away...but still have few requests to sell them, but not many.  As many of you well know, selling pens requires an outlet...whether it be Etsy, a vendor somewhere, or a farmers market....after being in business for 43 years, none of those appeal to me anymore, and most that try to sell them, have found it is not all that profitable.  I will not fray into this realm, as there are certainly those much more qualified at that.

BATCH PENS:
I make my pens in batches of around 20 pens per batch.  I have small tubs....7x10 purchased at HD...they have lids, but I find them in the way.  I suppose when I drop them and parts scatter, I may change my mind...but they stack better this way and are more compact.
This is the current batch and subject for this blog.

Each bin contains the pen kit, instructions for that kit, the blank...in this case.. already cut, and the bushings.
You may want to include the drill bit .  But I do a lot of the same kits so the bits are shared.  I do have many sets of bushings, so some bins contain bushings some do not.  Additions will be made to the bins as we progress.  Oh and these are new bins..they are still clean...that too will progress.

I would like to talk just a little about blanks and blank/kit selection.   The blanks should be matched to the kit.  I follow just a few thoughts when I do that.   
Kits come in a huge variety of colors and styles.  First I am, not a huge fan of the classic starter kit, the Slimline.  It is by far on of the hardest to turn correctly.  I do not like the fat or wasp style where it is flared from the bushings out...they are difficult to write with....and excuse me for interjecting opinion here, but amateurish.  I will not go into design....as stated earlier, this blog is not here to teach you the basics of pen turning.  If you are concerned with pen shape, look no further than high end pens, like Mont Blanc, and attempt to mimic their shape.  To summarize my style of pens shape, they are SLIGHTLY fatter in the middle....to give it some shape and style.  Straight blanks are rather boring....rather that slightly thicker middle...like me! 
Slimlines are cheaper, but have lessor quality transmissions, and plating's...but the blank is cut to a very thin thickness it is easy to break in production.  Many others are easier to make.  I like the "Patrizio",  It has thicker body...a decent transmission, and as it is meater...it handles being dropped by the user better.  The Patrizio, is alas, on its way out though.  It is still readily available, but is not pictured in the Penn State cataloge any more.  Which means it is more than likely doomed. 
I am going to insert a commercial in here now, only because it is because of the better pricing and service I get...I buy all my pen supplies from Exotic Blanks in WI.  They are close to me for one and I get a two day service from the USPS...but the pricing is cheaper by the kit and in total....all kits count...not just one you ordering at the time....they call it M&M...mix and match.  AND, you get a small bag of peanut M&M's. 
This is pertinent to bigger people, like myself.  It is run by Ed and Dawn, and their CS is second to none.  Ed is master turner and Dawn a master at pouring blanks, and they are willing to share their knowledge.   
They also have two guys that join them monthly on a youtube podcast, John Underhill and Mark Dreyer.  Both friends, both through the IAP website,  I have met in person,  at a symposium they put on In Chicago.  Both are Youtubers themselves and a wealth of information...I highly recommend looking them up on Youtube.  Marks' youtubes are called "Ten minutes to better penturning" and John is a blank caster and glu boost expert.

The matching of kit and blank can be complicated by the many plating's available in many kits now.  For simplicity, lets assume there are the good old three standbys.  Silver, Gold, and Gun Metal.  When I am matching a blanks with primarily cool colors...I use silver.  Warm colors, gold, and Gun metal is anyone's game, but usually cooler colors. 
Blank matching to kits is kind of a personal preference and I am going to leave it to you....I don't do a bunch of gold...I do not think there is a gold in this batch.  I do not do a lot of gold, because lets face it, these kits are not high end plating, and they do wear!  And they can show it and there is silver under the gold....and secondly...gold is kind of out right now.

But I only personally do gold kits, when there is gold in the blank.  AND, gold and silver look good together too.  so I can get away with a gold mica powdered blank on a silver kit too.

BLANKS:
As you all are aware there are a million different blanks out there....
I am going to show you three different catagories... 
Wood Blanks
Some available Acrylic Blanks
Moke poured blanks....cause I can..
Wooden blanks

Yes for those of you that know me...I have wooden blanks on hand....they are just old. 
The blanks shown are a variety of wood...and exotics...I do not like a plain red oak or walnut blank....they are boring.
These are a variety of dyed, spaulted, and exotic....all would make a fine pen.  The oilier woods will not retain a CA finish over time, unles you use a Denatured Alcohol thorough cleaning before the CA is applied.  It will spider web chip in  a year or two.  I personally do not know all the characteristics of exotic woods and so I DNA all blanks before applying the CA finish.
I will at this time interject a commercial again....I use only glu boost products....CA is a glue...not meant for a finish....glu boost had products similar made for finishing.  They were born in the luthier industries.They also have lacquer shot...which is a spray on lacquer made to finish pens on the lathe...cover everything with towels, however.... but it is awesome.  When I do my segmented wood pens I use that.  Not a cheap product...but well worth it...it buffs to a gorgeous shine.

A few available types of Acrylic Blanks;

Top to bottom:
1. This is a thin blue line blank.  A cop thing.  Being a former cop, I do a lot of them.  In fact I could not find a whole blank.  They come in a variety of thin lines, rd for fire, gold for military, yellow for EMS...on and on.  Reaily available.

2. This one is a unique blank I lie to turn available at Exotic...I think it is layered different colors poured.

3. A blank I use for segmenting, it is a turquoise wanna be blank.

3. It is called alternative Casein.  It is a product where milk protein is mixed with Resin and it develops the striations you see.  This is alternative Casein...a resin based product easier to turn, and cheaper than real casein.  Plus real casein is extremely prone to cracking.  the striations are not equal all the way around in alternative though.  It is very rare to find any any more, so I won't elaborate on it.

4.  This is a very old Berea Blank

5.   This blueish blank has spider web inlace, is a simulated stone blank...difficult to turn....very chippy. 

6.     I do some acrylic segmenting and black is a basic  backdrop for most of them, so you will see Dawns black knight blank...I also have many other solid colors to mix with it.  I believe this is Silmar

7.  A purple Aquabright squre blank for Exotic

8.  Another aquabright Pink Dream Blank for Exotic

This is just a small smattering of my blanks, I pulled out form my back stock.  These days I use mostly my original blanks.
There are just bunchs different kinds...colors...and materials.  Exoticblanks.com is great example of the availability.
Below, find a list I have complied of different kinds of blanks.  I know I will get gigged that I do not have phots of all these, but they would just be stolen form other sites anyway.

OVERVIEW OF DIFFERENT TYPE OF AVAILABLE BLANKS:
First of all, all plastic blanks are referred to as “acrylic”.  But as you will read it is a generic term.

Casein-  Casein is a product where Milk protein is infused into a resin.  It develops the striations.  Casein is a brittle product in its true form and has a tendency to crack or ship, however, Alternative Casein has been developed  with more resin infused into it, and it is not prone to cracking or chipping.  However, I have found, the striations have a tendency to not be equal all the way around.  Similarly there is an Ivory rod, in both true form and Alternative form, with similar type turning virtues.  It is has no striations or markings…it is just an “ivory” colored rod.  It is a medium to higher priced product.

 Ebonite- Ebonite is a hard rubber product.  It is so hard, you would never know it is a rubber based product.  It comes colored, solid, or swirled.  It is a hard product but turns well and it is known for its ability to be threaded.  It is used in lots of Kitless pens.  It is also more expensive. 

 Hybirds-  Hybrids blanks are also known as worthless wood blanks.  They are typically a piece of twisted or curved wood (worthless is its current state) that have been stabilized and put in a mold with a poured acrylic product and cut to size to form a pen blank.  These are very popular and can be a striking blank in appearance.  They are usually somewhat pricey.  

 Acrylester Inlace-  May also be referred to as Acrylester or Inlace also.  They are a Polyester product.  These blanks can be difficult to turn, if made correctly, can be turned and polished to a high luster.  If not make correctly can be chippy and crack.  I have had blanks both ways.  It is one of my least favorite to turn, however that opinion is not always shared amongst other turners.  Some turners love them and readily use them….I am not in that camp.  I avoid them.  They are reasonably priced.

 Rhino Polyester- A similar product to Inlace however with a shimmering appearance.  In general they have great and pleasing appearance.  Again they are subject to cracking somewhat, but when brought to completion, they are a very nice looking pen.  One of my favorites.  Take super light cuts with very sharp tools.  This product polishes extremely well.  Medium range pricing.

 Kirinite-  Actually originally made for handgun grips.  They are Acrylic acetate.  I have found they are somewhat inconsistent in patterning.  I have some outstanding ones and others boring.  They turn and polish well.  Usually on the medium range side. 

 Berea Blanks- These are a product sold only by Berea.  However, sold to many resellers.  It is a patented process.  Very consistent in good results,   A wide variety of and colors.  Easy to turn, but widely used and somewhat common in the penmaker world.  If you are looking for easy to turn, consistent results, this is a good blank,  If you are looking for something original, this is not it.  Very common.  Can be very inexpensive.  However a industry staple for penmakers.

 Clear Polyresin-  Can be several different products, but all clear.  It is common for custom casters to wrap the tube with anything really, like postage stamps, any type of clothing material, printed logos from a computer printer, bird feathers, on and on. then cast in clear resin.  Often done in either  a product called Silmar 41 or Alumilite Clear.  These are extremely common, in high demand, and can be done in a million different ways.  Super popular.  Can be pricey. depending on the caster…overall I would categorize as medium price range. 

 Epoxy Resin-  A rather generic term.  Epoxy can be classified as many things.  A wide variety of styles and colors.  It turns easily and polishes well.  Pricing varies greatly, but usually reasonable. 

Trustone- Trustone is a patented process, with stone infused with some sort of very hard resin.  I do not know what.  Can be hard to turn.  Make sure to use sharp tools, and sharpen often.  Can dull carbide tools quickly.  It is chippy, and they are very expensive, but can yield some striking results. It was once described to me as turning a rock from your garden.  I have found them to be difficult to turn and have even had some broken in half during shipment.

Bakelite-  It is an old product. My father as a machinist used to turn it in the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s.  It is an interesting product, no longer made.  But found in old toys, radios and décor.  Those can be turned and has a very pleasing, retro look.  Usually a brownish color, but other colors out there too.  Makes a very interesting pen.  No longer available, you have to stumble onto it.  Many people will use pieces of the toys or what ever and cut a blank from them.

Polymer Clay-  Clay that is hardened with flower design or many other things wrapped around a specific sized tube.  They yield extremely pleasing results.  Generally purchased with tube in, so requires little to no turning.  If they are the wrong size, they are typically sanded to size.  They require a CA type finish.  Many beautiful designs.  Very expensive and limited availability. but outstanding results.

 PVC- This is not really an Acrylic product.  Usually cut from the side wall of a thick, hardened PVC water pipe, like 12" pipes.  Available in off white or a teal and blue.  I have found this to have bubbles in the finish…you could use Glu boost filler and then put a coating of glu boost thin over it.  I have had poor success with it, as for the bubbling is inherit in the product.  Very inexpensive, or just get a piece from a construction company.  It is commonly discarded at construction sites.  

 Corian- Cut from Corian counter tops.  It is only available in thinner thickness…1/2" or so.  So a will work for a smaller thinner pen. I have tried gluing it together to get a 1” blank with no success, as the glue line always showed.   Generally turns well, and looks good.  A counter top company will sell you cut off for very cheap.  Nice to work with, but limited pen kits to work with.

 Fordite-  Fordite is a very unique product.  It is basically random layers and layers of automotive paint.  In the past it was a broken off of auto paint shop paint booths.  Then cast in Silmar or  Alumilte for stability.  Now with growing popularity it is manufactured occasionally. But it is still not very common and very expensive.  Makes for unique look.  Very Striking pens.  

 Alumilte-  The most common of the home made pen blank.  It is a two part, super additivity process.  Results are very dependent on the caster.  Some are over the top great, others run of the mill.  The type of color additive is the key to creativity.   If not done well, there can be pin holes in the finish.  Also it does not polish to as high of shine as other material.  However, with a few coats of glu boost thin, it yields deep, rich colors and any imperfections are filled in, and a high gloss is achieved.  Blanks are priced by the producer.  Generally very reasonably priced.   

 
Moke Blanks

These are Moke Blanks, poured with the above mentioned two part Acrylic called Alumilte.  It turns like butter, but really should have a few layers of glu boost to bring out the shine and deepen the colors.  The resin itself is clear, infused with various mica powder and different types of dyes and allowed to dry in a pressure pot at 40psi to eliminate air bubbles.  I really do not intend to cover casting in this series.  However, about half of the blanks used in this batch are from these types of blanks.. I still use a lot of purchased blanks too.  They are available at very reasonable prices these days.  

I have, over 20 years of pen turning, chosen to do really only acrylic....when I owned my business I had a few pens all the time available in a small display.  I did wood back then and found that the acrylic sold about 5 to 1 over wooden.  In my mind acrylic just has more impact.  Now this is not to say that there are some awesome wooden pens out there...because there certainly are, this is just my humble opinion...well, maybe not all the humble....

This is the end of the first installment of Moke Pens.  Next will be bandsawing the blanks, then drilling on the lathe. 
It is my hope that I can help with some of the issues you may have, and interject some better ways of doing things.  Lord only knows the amount of mistakes I have made over the past 20 years...
Feel free to ask questions or helpful suggestions.