I finally got to switch gears and do some work on the legs/support for the cabinet.  Some of the rough shaping I had done a while back, but didn't have enough photos to constitute a decent post.  Well, I've got a load now, so here we go.

The legs and their stretchers will be made from some red oak that I got from my brother-in-law who felled the tree and had it milled.  It's got quite a lot of borer holes, but since I'll ultimately be ebonizing the oak parts, they probably won't be terribly noticeable.   After planing to thickness, I rough cut the legs an brought them to final shape with a router template.

The integral spacer at the top will receive a threaded insert to receive a furniture bolt from inside the cabinet.   I first marked out the center of each spacer.

With the centers marked with an awl, I used a brad point bit to drill out the hole for the insert.  To keep the hole perpendicular to the face, I stacked two legs together in reverse orientation.

I added a healthy countersink to each hole to ensure that the lip of the insert would be recessed.

Checking for fit.

I recently picked up an older model Leigh mortise and tenon jig.  The price was right and I couldn't pass it up.  I'll be using it for the first time for some of the leg joinery - the mortises in the lower end of the legs and tenons on the stretchers.  I took some time to do some practice joints with the jig.  I produces good results, but clamping for mortises can be cramped, and indexing for repeated operation is only decent for tenons.  You're left to your own devices for mortises.

For the mortises, I made a simple jig with a scrap of 1/4" ply and some stops to hold the leg in position.   This will ensure that I'm plunging perpendicular to the surface.

I added this small wing to the Leigh jig so I could clamp a stop block for one end of the leg cradle jig.

With this setup, I could get the remaining 3 legs into exactly the same position.

Only the first leg needs to be marked for centering.

The mortising took no time at all.

Setting up for the stretcher tenons was a little more straightforward.  The Leigh has a fence that can be mounted vertically to support repeated operations.  The older Leigh fence didn't have an integral square on it, so I did that manually.
I made a filler block to provide more clamping surface when doing mortises, but I realized it would get cut into with tenons, so I popped it out before the first tenon.  The tenon is offset towards the bottom of the stretcher, which will make more sense when the stretcher is cut to its final shape.

Checking the plunge depth for the shoulder.

Cutting the tenons went very smoothly with this jig.  You start with a climb cut circling the end to establish a bit of a shoulder, and then reverse and cut the remainder in the usual direction.  Super smooth result.

The fit was spot-on.  I intentionally started with a wider stretcher because I wasn't sure if I could count on exact alignment from the jig.  The excess on the top and bottom will get trimmed off shortly.

At this stage, the neck on the leg is wider than the stretcher.  I'll taper this in by trimming that area on the leg with a core box bit on the router table.

I may need to go a little deeper into the leg with that curve to help blend it it.  I won't know for certain until I'm working on the roundovers on the remaining edges. 

I made a router template for the final stretcher shape.  I had to puzzle-piece it because it was longer than the 1/4" ply I had on hand.

With the outline transferred to the stretchers, I removed bulk of the excess on the bandsaw.

I trimmed it to shape on the router table with a double-bearing flush trim bit.  It really helps to always cut oak going downhill, and with that bit you can.

There's still a tiny amount of cleanup I'll need to do to give the joint a smooth transition, but that will be easily done after glue-up.

I couldn't resist a test fit of the legs.  I used a couple strap clamps to keep the joints tight and carefully propped-up the cabinet and put the legs underneath.   It's coming along.