Working on installing some LVP (9 inch x 48 inch planks) in our entry, kitchen, and mudroom. I miscalculated when I put together my plan for the rows. 🤦♀️ I should have adjusted my first row by 3 inches. However, I must of been too tired to correctly read my tape measure and so I now am facing a dilemma.
I have 15 rows in place (painfully so with register vents and angled openings into a side room). I have two more full rows until I hit a wall (with a door into my office) plus 1+ inches. I know that is way too narrow, but with all the special cuts/angles, going back to start over - well, trying to avoid as I'm guessing I would lose too much material.
Some thoughts I've had * sell the house and let someone else figure this out (quite sure this will be vetoed by the dogs who like their home)
* glue the 1-inch pieces needed to reach the wall to the last row to make that "oversized" (BUT not sure what type of glue would work best)
* take it out and start over (this may leave me short of planks as with the special cuts, there would be a lot of wasted material)
I'm hoping option 2 is workable. Any suggestions? So frustrated that I misread my tape measure - I so carefully graphed it out...using the wrong dimensions. Here's the current status (blue tape on edge to prevent damage)
I’m guessing you can get some vinyl glue and join the edges without too much issue. Your baseboards will cover a fair amount of it too and should help hide it. And it’s almost a wall so it’s not likely to see any wear, right?
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
RyanGi- unfortunately it is also where there are double doors into my office so will have traffic there at the transition. I guess I could look at doing a custom transition as I'm planning to do that for the entry into the living room.
I will have to look up vinyl glue. I was thinking to just use super glue on the locking mechanism between the full planks and the 1" plank sections, although I'm not sure what that material is actually.
It will be an inch from the last full row to the wall, and also to the transition piece. Hopefully this picture shows it better (hard to explain) - arrow is where I'll need about 1+ inch section of LVP to reach the current transition as well as the wall (latter is less of a concern)
I could make a larger width wood transition but it would protrude into the entry area where this new flooring is. Still, might be an option for stability.
Nope, the 9 inch width is what is available. I still cannot believe the time I spent planning only to find my original measure was wrong (so frustrated with myself).
Well, you could rip two of them, each to round 5” then glue together the ripped edges. They wouldn’t be a single 9” wide piece, but at least there wouldn’t be a 1” strip running the whole room.
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
Unfortunately, these are so thin (LPV not laminate) so without using the locking mechanism, it would likely be really weak. I have some small cutoffs that I plan to try some glue/adhesive options.
Well, you could glue those two sections to the subfloor. If you went the double 5” route, there’d be plenty of real estate to spread glue on for a good hold even near the edges.
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
Supposed to be a "floating floor" so cannot glue to the under-surface. I'm looking more at the layout to see what else I can come up with. Really would like to find an adhesive appropriate for just on the locking mechanism - think that would be fine along with a solid transition piece, even with a narrow piece.
Sorry Barb. "IT" happens, so we just do the best we can with it when it hits the floor.
Unfortunately I don't have a plan that allows a fix. But I may have a plan that will allow a fudge factor? It will all come down to cost, but I have helped a few home owners redo base boards so they had a wider. and taller one that would cover out to 2 1/4" to hide flooring mishaps. Starts with a taller base in the back, must be 3/4" wide. In front of that another shorter 3/4" piece, and then a 3/4 shoe mold in front of that. If the cost comes in less than the replacement cost of new material, you still win. Saved putting down the floor, and got a new look on the base.
Plenty of variations of the "look" but most styles of decorating, and home can work with some variation. Key is to look at thicker trims, many due to costs are becoming 5/8" wide, instead of 3/4"
I think trying to glue it may not end well. Especially if the floor goes into another room where you would walk through the skinny piece. Without any traffic on it, maybe it would work? Only way to find out is to try it. You could go that route, if it doesn't work, you could change up the trim later.
However it ends, you are NOT the first person who figured the wrong lay on a flooring install.
Ohhhh, in case you do end up widening the trim, under the gap, lay down a piece of the new flooring so everything sits on a level field. Otherwise trying to hang the new trim will be a pickle. Just don't make it tight to the field, or it will mess with expansion, allow around 1/4" total.
Ok, now rereading, and seeing that piece where it looks like it will be a transition piece maybe? The trim thing will just work on a walled setting. For room to room, where 2 floorings meet, yep you need a transition. Just make it a custom one, that is a tad wider. You may have to make it thicker so if walked on it won't crack. But I know some flooring guys who have some pretty wide transition pieces, just taper it down on both sides to keep it from being a tripping point.
GeorgeWest- yep, "IT" seems to happen on all my projects lately. 😕 I think I'll be ok by the wall (as you and Petey note, baseboards and base mold) and am looking at how I can create a custom transition to provide adequate coverage and support.
Petey - I have the prior row installed (as it continues into the adjacent kitchen). LPV is thin, compared to laminate that I've installed), so am not sure how well two pieces would mesh/hold together without the locking mechanism, even if glued. I planned on making custom transition in another spot (connecting to living room) so guess I will do a match in this doorway.
Also next step, looking at how to get the refrigerator moved, plus the washer and dryer in the last room. This would be much easier in a new build where the trim and everything isn't already in place! Questioning if the $$ saved on doing the install is worth this all. But then my husband reminded me that it's unlikely installers would be examine planks to ensure there aren't planks near one another with a similar pattern 🫣
Hey, what about mesh? Like drywall mesh. You could use it as a substrate under the wide piece and the strip as a way to bridge them together with glue (epoxy?). It’s thin and strong and would allow a thin layer of epoxy to bind into the mesh and onto the bottom of the LVP. Since you’re really just using it to stabilize the floating piece, it doesn’t have to be super strong…especially if it’s got a fair amount of surface area compared to the strip.
You might have to test it out to see if it adds any appreciable thickness. If it does, could you maybe grind down just a little bit of the subfloor to allow for it?
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
Hmmm...love thinking outside the box...that could be an added layer of confidence. I have some leftover mesh from a prior project (does the list of home projects ever end?!). I need to do some trials with scrap to see what will work best (or maybe just "better" 😁)
Than you everyone- eventually with the transitions this will circle around to be a woodworking project!!!
The git-er-done in my mind would be the mesh strip underneath, glued to the adjoining wide sheet to connect your strip. Some packing tape on the floor beneath would keep the adhesive from sticking below to the foundation.
Now if I wasn't rushed, I'd pull it all out and slide toward the door in the background by the proper amount so you have the wide strip at the entrance where your gap is. You will have to use a new strip on the back side of the register (toward the door) since the cutout will be exposed, but everything else, especially the angled section to the right will just need to be trimmed shorter.
Linda looks like you could get away with two new strips (at the register and the wide piece to fit in at your gap).
With some of the unique cuts at the living room, I think there may have been a bit more waste. Discussed disassembling and starting over with my husband and he vetoed that idea. So...I moved forward 😬
I ended up using superglue on the short lip holds like one piece and clicked the other long edge in place. I spoke with the flooring guy I purchased this from (they have a DIY type package and so will answer some questions along the way), and he felt with the transition piece in place, it shouldn't be a problem. Here's the current - original transition just laying on top as with the new height, it wouldn't snap in place (may need to add a thin board underneath the metal track or make a new one).
I just got that done this morning. Time will tell if that was the right choice. I looked back a some other rooms I did with laminate and there were some thinner pieces at doorways which have remained rock solid. Hopefully this will be the same.
Much thanks to everyone for the tips and suggestions. I appreciate my Craftisian community so much. Pretty sure this is the last flooring job I will do!!! For now...continuing on into the kitchen (ignore the little pieces of blue tape - those were to help me ensure I had all the joints randomly staggered...planned randomness 😁).
