Had this router since I bought my router lift for my then new table I made, maybe 15+ years ago?
Anyhoo, I use it a lot. Lately it's been making some odd noise, subtle difference but different. Only hear it when it is spooling down.
I suspect the bearing(s) as most here know that sound. So off to do some parts searching. I knew the main bearing number as it is visible, the other end? Not sure.
Order out, but I though I'd give a few drops of light oil a try and lo/behold, it shut right up. Obviously had gone dry, but I'll swap them out anyway. At least it is not getting ready to self destruct!
Here is the patient
Woodpeckers PRL lift. I love this thing, but any quality lift in a router table is a game changer. Collet removed, I see a hex recess in the motor shaft.
1. Remove the collet "nut"
Tools required: 1-1/8" wrench (spanner for our friends across the pond!) 3/8" hex wrench Some form of cheater bar.
This is where the "fun" begins. Most tools will fight you all the way so be prepared. Nut takes a 1-1/8" wrench, but since the collet is a two-wrench setup, the factory wrench will do. The hex recess takes a 3/8" Allen wrench. I have the router (still installed in the lift) raised to the top.
Cheater bar is a long 3/8 drive extension and 3/8" deep socket.
Ready for a fight I hold the bar steady and twist the wrench CCW. A bit of torque then the nut just starts spinning off 🤠 No fight, just smoooth! (yea!)
Nut off, one can see the bearing and retainer screws. These screws also hold the intake vanes in place.
2. Remove the screws and vanes
Tools required: T-25 Torx bit
Since the vanes are bigger than the hole in the lift table, I lower the router a bit so I can slip it out the side. Screws removed and vane slipped out.
3. Remove the motor cap (the red thing) Tools required: T-25 Torx bit
Here is a shot of the tag.
4 Torx screws, plus one in the center of the height adjust from when this was a hand-held router. Not needed with the lift and the lift even has a hole so it doesn't need to be removed (keeps it from getting lost in the spare parts drawer).
The height dial pulls straight off. Needed a longer bit as my Torx socket was too short to reach the screw.
This exposes the guts. I see some dust has settled in. You can see the (single) screw in the picture center that holds on the speed controller.
4. Remove the speed controller
Tools required: T-20 Torx bit.
Single screw, one wire, and the controller flips off to the side.
No drama! (yet)
That white wire comes from the cord so I'll leave it alone. You can see the magnet on the end of the motor shaft exposed. It is what tells the controller how fast the motor is spinning. Typically this is one part that will shatter when you look at it. 5. Remove the brushes and cord
Tools Required: T-20 Torx bit Flat blade screw driver
The brushes are held in a brush holder versus the typical plastic caps on the side of the router. Let's see what is involved: You can see two screws. Take them out.
On the side you can see where the brush holder mates with an electrical terminal cast into the black plastic.
A screwdriver easily helps scoot the connector apart as the brush holder slides out. Photos of the brush holders removed got lost, but instead of them shooting across the shop, they stayed put. No drama! Brushes looked fine, plenty of meat left. I did mark their location since they must go back from whence they came.
The commutator looked a bit black, I'll clean that up later.
Cord secured with two screws. The switch is a common style. These often get filled with dust and fail. Usually a blast of compressed air will restore them. Common enough that I have a box of that style I use for other projects! (kudos to Milwaukee for standard parts!) Screws removed and the black wire free from the motor cap, the cord and speed controller can get set aside.
The motor cap is slip fit (nice solid fit!). I used the brake adjuster and the convenience of the router lift to gently pop it up. Again, no drama!
Instead of the cap coming off, the motor armature came with it as the bit end of the shaft came out of the bearing. Another no drama deal, pulling the bearing off the shaft!
More dust. The black cover slips off exposing the armature and then the armature easily pulls free of the cap.
You can see the magnet for the speed controller and the rear bearing (left). "Cuts" in the armature indicate that some effort was spent balancing the rotating bits.
Cap removed, I can also slip out the height adjust rod. I'll reinstall this as it plugs a hole in the body.
7. Remove/replace the main bearing in the body.
Tools required: large socket and extension. replacement bearing Nachi 6004NSE
Router body raised in the lift so that the plate supports the body for the next operation. Extension attached to the socket backwards so the flat on the back of the socket can be used to evenly press against the bearing.
From the inside of the body, "tool" applied to the bearing. Will this be where things go bad? Nope!, I just pushed and the bearing came free! (no-drama)
I secured a replacement bearing (Nachi brand) as the original Old bearing spun nicely, but too easy indicating lack of greeeeeze. Smooth so probably still fine with some new lube. Anyhoo, new bearing slipped in place with a gentle push using a full diameter socket. The router body was supported at the back end to keep any required pressure off of the lift mechanism. Slipped right in with slight pressure! I had the side of the bearing with the part number visible from the outside so next time I'll be able to re-discover the correct part without relying on any diagrams or lists. (👍 from future me)
8. Remove/replace the rear bearing. Tools required: Two small flat blade screwdrivers. Bearing 608DW
Never apply force to the magnet (brown) as they are very brittle. The plastic insert is a good place to try prying.
This is where things will go south!
Nope! Slid right off! (no-drama!)
Now for pulling the rear bearing. Looks overkill eh?
I didn't have a small puller so I had to use what was available. Small 3/8" drive socket plus stubby extension slips over the shaft as my pullers screw was too short. Some turning of the shrew (screw) and the bearing started moving. Once it began to clear the end of the shaft, I used a Torx socket to bring it home.
Voila! No drama.
Dumb @$$ me, I ordered the wrong bearing. A quick look through the large box full of other bearings I bought that didn't fit stuff, I realized I had a bunch of the proper part. Mystery Mfg. (probably Chinese skate board stuff), but hey, I could finish up! New left, old right. Old still felt fine, but why not replace it when I can?
9. Clean the commutator bars Tools required: 2000 grit paper
Before: After:
Just wrapped the paper 1/2 way around and did the shoe polisher motion. Went quick! (no-drama). 10. Reassemble Tools required: (just read back upwards)
All together and it works great! Gotta complement Milwaukee for the excellent modular design!
Lastly I rechecked the motor/lift alignment for perpendicularity.
Reinstall in the table, re-level, and finito!
Hope this helps someone in the future, what ever the tool is. Best advice? Take photos of wiring and don't be afraid of using a sharpie to label stuff!
