Well, last time I left with the copper soaking up ammonia fumes.

It worked, but not quite the effect I was after:
 

The black is what the ammonia fumes will do to copper. The color starts off as a dark blue then gets darker with time.
The light blue streaks are from the salt. I like the look of the section on the right, but not enough zing.

A clean up and into the fumer for another go.

This time, instead of the paper towels, I'm going to use coarse saw dust and salt.

Spread out on the floor, copper misted with water and rolled them over the pile.
Also modified the lower hanger disc to allow more fumes (get a quicker reaction)

After about 4 hours, pulled the plug. Dry overnight, then a light rubdown to remove any Klingons and prep for a shellac top coat. The finish is somewhat soft so it'll need a layer of protection.

Better!

Leave it for now and on to other things.

First up is to cut the notch for some corner details on the struts.

These are the outer corners, 1/4" x 1/4", to be filled with strips of jatoba, 3/8" square.

Holes recessed for the pipe between the bottom and middle blocks.
3/8" pipe fits a 1/2" hole.

The lamp wire will pass through one of these and I'll create a through hole for that later.

What about that top block?

Glad you asked!
The side angles are ~2 degrees, but not exactly. With the bottom and middle blocks positioned, I can get a good read on what angles are needed for the top. This is a small part and any errors below will change the fit.

First is a 7/8" recess for the upper pipe (single pipe, 3/4" copper) and then a 1/2" through hole.

Next is to route grooves for the lamp shade "corbels". They'll have matching tenons to fit.

3/8" wide, 3" long, as deep as I dared.
This one was probably a bit too deep so since I had the taper jig all ready, I made a new block and planned for the mortise slots to leave a bit more meat.

Now for the tapers.
I measure the cross distance at the top and bottom positions for the top block and laser-cut some tapers for a jig.

Double sided tape and a firm grip gets the cuts done.
This is a practice block to double check the angles against the lamp stem mock-up

Double sided tape and a firm grip gets the cuts done.


Next up is to route the grooves along the corners (1/4")

A fancy part that I don't want to mess with any more, but will need some veneer later.

The base had been waiting, Needs to be heavy and wide so the lamp isn't too tippy.

Three layers of walnut as with the original.
Framed squares, 8", 14", and 18" (shade is about 20")

Used my surface plate for a flat glueup. End-grain with stretched masking tape on both sides, done in steps.

Sides splined  (cherry) and tapered.

No glue yet.

30, 80, 45 degree tapers top to bottom.

Still up: foot pads, top block lower cap, Upper pipe, and assembly. Then it's on to the corbels and electrics.