and haters, you know who you are. Table saw fence jigs are much easier for Biesemeyer and similar fences, the jig only has to fit OVER the fence.
I made a push block to lock into and slide along the Incra fence. I made it several years ago, soon after getting it. I realized one of the objections to the Incra fence shortly after the purchase. I took it as a challenge.
It's real good for pieces less than 1" between the fence and the blade when using the Shark/Ark guard, no room for much of a push block or stick. The sidepiece is adjustable for height, it holds the workpiece down against the table.
Yesterday I used it to right size the inside piece of a bandsaw box. Bandsaws are not really about precision, at least when I'm driving. I attached a piece of 1/4" bb ply to the jig and doublesided tape to the workpiece.
I used 1/4" bolts to slide in the fence, anything that will slide through and not lift out will work.
It works for me
I'm probly going to let you down but, I swear I won't keep you down. John Hiatt
That’s a solid idea. I use a gripper with the offset foot to straddle the blade, but that doesn’t allow the use of a blade guard. I like the idea of the push stick being on top of the extrusion. Unfortunately, I’ve got jessem wheels mounted on top of mine, but they’re easy enough to remove if needed. Thanks for posting!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
I replaced my Biesmeyer fence with a VSCT extrusion that has a similar slot on the top edge. I use it for various attachments, but now my eyes have been opened to the possibilities of using it as a form of miter slot for all sorts of TS "helpers"
i was just looking at my fence which i have a BOW auxiliary fence attached to. i think i could easily do what youve done hairy ? i really like it. like i said i had something just like it on my old vega fence.
looks like another shop project coming up ?
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
You could maybe sink some setscrews into it to adjust out slop, top to bottom and side to side I'm not saying it's sloppy, you can make it as detailed as you want
I'm probly going to let you down but, I swear I won't keep you down. John Hiatt
I used it again today, to clean up the ends of a glue up. Blade raised to full height. Pucker factor sky high,too.
I got the blade to just kiss the wood. The slightest cut possible. Sometimes 1 cut, sometimes 2. This is a 1. I stay as far right as possible, push the block all the way while pushing against the fence.
I'm probly going to let you down but, I swear I won't keep you down. John Hiatt
Never been known to be overly safety conscious, though I am trying (very trying), however, the golden rule I got from somewhere was that if the "push through" length exceeds the "cut length" you should use a mitre gauge for push through support.
I hate to say it, but this scenario, would make even me reach for (UGH!) hand (UGH!) tools (UGH!) and a (UGH!) shooting (UGH!) board (UGH!).
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Hairy, that is way cool! I'm going to have to adopt this technique. I run "wrong" shapes through my saw all the time. Carefully, just like how porcupines make love.
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