I have a Triton router (TRA 001, 3 1/4 hp) in my Infinity router table. I started to work this morning on a box that I wanted to cut in some finger-holds. I did a test on some scrap. When I went to do another trial after making some adjustments, the router is totally dead and won't turn on.
I've checked the outlet and no problem there, nor in the cord I plug into. I have a start/stop button on the table that the router plugs into. I bypassed that (router directly to the short yellow extension cord I have at the outlet) and still nothing.
I have turned it off and on at the router, and nothing.
What should I look at next? Not sure if router "sounded different" on that cut 🤔 Hopefully this is something simple as I have a few items I really wanted to work on today that I want to use the router table. 🙄
Does it make ANY noise at all when you try to apply power?
Could be an overheat issue but doesn’t sound like it.
Does it have soft start? Could be a start/run capacitor.
If it’s not an external issue, your last course is the switch…or a fried motor. If you’re willing to take off the casing and jump the switch, you’ll know.
How old is it? Sometimes tools just die… 👎🏼
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
I had made just that one cut so not overheated. Was just getting started.
Making no noise at all. Completely dead (and silent).
I'll need to look for a manual reset. Trying not to have to remove from the table as I recall that was a struggle to get in place.
I've had it since spring 2019. I don't use it heavily (you all know the projects I do - no production shop!).
I'm thinking it might be related to the lock mechanism as the handle had come off and I reattached it (cannot remember if before or after the non-start). Will be checking that once I get back out to the shop.
Not familiar with that router, but most I've dealt with have a master power switch and then a trigger operated switch for on/off without loosening your grip. Most of these triggers have a side botton to lock them on as well. Squeeze the trigger to release this button. I'd suspect this button or whatever trigger lock it has disabled from vibrations or other happenings.
I doubt it's a main power switch since it appears you leave the router's power switch on all the time and use the paddle switch for on/off. Sawdust can get packed in the router and interfere with its switch, but since you leave it alone, that is down on the list.
Hmmm...so here's the router parts and I only see the single on/off (#7 is the cover over the #8 switch)
I've tried adjusting the lock mechanism with no effect. Interesting - the light on the on/off switch is on when I hit the START button, but nothing turns on other than the light.
With the switch in the on position (but not yet hitting the start at the front of the table) And then when I hit the start switch at the front of the table But no router movement at all.
See the largish brush covers on the sides (#9)? Unscrew them one at a time and inspect the brush (don't rotate them 180 when you put them back, they are set to only work one way). With the brush out, a blast of compressed air is nice to clear out and built up dust.
You might also want to work the speed dial back/forth a bit to clear it up.
Thank you Splintergroup. I will try that - likely will be tomorrow as my day has not unfolded as planned 😕.
Earlier I tried calling the USA number on the Triton webpage but it didn't work for me. I did post a message to their tech support (online form) so hopefully I'll also hear back from them. Not sure if there are any local places that would be able to look at it beyond basic stuff I can check. I don't feel very confident in fixing tools like this.
I understand. Certainly if you see that power light on the switch, but checking the brushes and other external items to rule them out is good. Without any resolution, it means start disassembly, which is up to your skills and discretion.
I think I'm well over my head with this. Really frustrating as I have some projects that I wanted to get done (gifts). Guessing I need to find a local shop that might look at this.
Barb, the switches on the Triton routers have, and I guess still are a problem spot on their long term life. You can Search just Triton router power switch, and get reads about both the 2 1/2 and 3 1/4 units, and it seems there is huge agreement that they aren't a very good, or dependable switch. I have one of each, and have been lucky I guess, no problems.
I would ask Triton as you already have, and see if they are standing behind the product. An assortment of "fixes" will be noted if you do read the accounts on many forums, Most don't sound like they have anything to do with a bad electrical circuit. Things like whacking it real hard 3 times, stuff like that.
On my main router table I upgraded a while back to a Bora 3HP, and it's a tank. I just have the Tritons as hand held now, so hopefully if they do act up, I'll just need to put the bit into another router, and keep going.
Looks good! (there are two of them, one each side).
The end opposite the spring should have a nice clean curve where it meets the motor commutator.
Might try giving the power switch a few dozen flicks on/off (unplugged) to maybe wake it up. George is right about the switches on many routers. My table router (Milwaukee) also sits on all the time with an external power switch and sometimes it will not run until I give it a blow out and flick the switch around.
Thanks for that info GeorgeWest- although it doesn't sound too encouraging. Less than 6 years - seems sad given the cost. Hopefully Triton responds to the message. Frustrating not to have a phone number to call.
Splintergroup- yep, both sides were about the same (other was a challenge as it was to the back of my setup so had to use my phone as a mirror to see!!)
I have to switch it off to raise to change bits (safety feature) so the switch does get into an on/off sequence regularly.
If it is variable speed and soft start, it may have a digital speed control that could be fried? Repair may not be easy and replacement circuit board could be pricey. If you open it up, inspect the circuit boards closely for any signs of charred or melted components.
EDIT to add: also look for a fuse on any of the boards. Sometimes they have a fuse soldered to the board to protect sensitive components on top of the thermal fuse that protects the motor for overloading.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
Nathan - I'm not qualified to open it up to explore (wouldn't really know what I am looking at/for). Although I love the overall table, I've never been fully happy with the adjustment on height with this router setup. If it isn't reasonably fixable (hopefully Triton will respond), I'll be looking into other options that will work with the table I have.
Check the brushes. A bit of dust under one of them will keep it from running! I see you have had them out. That has s speed control rheostat on it. It could be that burned out. Look around for a local guy that works on electric motors and have him bird dog it. If the brushes are good, it must be the switch or the speed control rheostat. It will take someone to use a continuity tester across the switch and the rheostat..........Cheers, Jim ps Borrow a router to finish you project in the meantime!!!
Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day
Thus far I haven't been able to communicate with anyone at Triton. Phone numbers won't go through. Hopefully I'll get a response from the question to customer service that I submitted online yesterday.
I thought trying to find a repair place might be an avenue. Looked at retailers in Missouri - none close, but called Beaver Industrial Supply in St Louis. They don't do repairs but the guy I spoke with was very helpful. He suggested replacing the brushes as apparently that is an issue with these routers and wouldn't be a big cost. He looked up and shared that Triton lists toolsparesonline for parts. That part (a pair) is around $11 with the same amount for international shipping. I looked up the company and noted some concerning reviews. Anyone have a source in the US?
Sometimes just turning the brushes around will fix the issue if the brushes are the problem. It also won't hurt to just lightly scuff them with some fine sandpaper in case there are some contaminants that have cooked onto them from the friction. Also inspect the commutator (where the brushes rub on the motor shaft). If it is damaged or particularly dirty, that could also be a sign that the brushes are related to the problem.
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
RyanGi- I am definitely not qualified to go any farther into the inner workings of the router 🤷♀️. Wish I had those skills/knowledge but I don't (at this time anyway!).
Jim - I had called a local shop that does do blade sharpening but they don't do router repairs. You started to talk in another language (😁 what's a rheostat!?). What type of shop would have the testing tools you mentioned?
Nathan - the things I pulled out looked really clean. I struggled getting them back in place so might need to get it out of the table where I have better perspective. Right now there's no benefit of a non-working router in the table anyway.
