I’m using quarter sawn ash for the trim on the panel. I cut enough material for the entire project (if all goes to plan). The border trim is 1.25” wide and 0.22” thick. The center trim piece is 1” wide and 0.11” thick. I have some extra wide pieces for the curved fender trim.
The top trim piece has an extra wide section up front to create the trim extension onto the hood. The wide section is formed with an extra piece. I glued it up now with some plastic wrap underneath.
Each piece is clamped in place to allow fitting of adjacent pieces. Eventually I have all the pieces cut to size. The horizontal pieces lay nicely along the panel but the pieces that are vertical or wrap around the fender curves need some clamping force to pull them into shape. I’m concerned that the strips will want to pull the panel out of shape when it comes off the forms.
The pieces around the fender curves need to twist as well as bend.
It seems like I need to steam bend the strips. This is my first attempt at steam bending – other than some thinner strips about 15-20 years ago. After a few days pondering how I wanted to steam bend my strips I remembered something about using a microwave to bend wood. A few consultations with “the glowing rectangle” (aka my phone) got me informed. The important part about steam bending is the heat. The steam helps get the heat deeper into the strip.
My bending form is simply a section of 2x4. I trace the curvature of the panel form on the side of it. Then I doubled the deflection since I expect the strip to spring back about half way. By bending a wood strip I can trace a curve that should work.
I wrap my first strip in an old T-shirt and soak it in hot water. Then I put it in the microwave for 20-30 seconds at a time. I take the strip out (with potholders) and test bend it. After a minute or so the strip is soft and ready to bend. A couple clamps hold the strip to shape. Once the strip has cooled I can take it off. This strip runs vertically on the back edge of the panel.
I set the bent strip on the panel. My guess on spring back was pretty good.
The strip below this one (along the back fender) covers some distance side to side. I made 3 more copies of my bending form. Two of them have the curve extended for the strips along the front fender. The next strip bent uses 3 form pieces. The bending forms are simply clamped together so I can reconfigure them for each strip.
Next I tackle the strip along the top of the front fender. This is the one that cover the most distance side to side. I space the forms apart to cover the distance.
I can use the gaps between the forms to get my clamps in place.
The last strip to bend is along the lower half of the front fender. This is the longest strip. I double check and it just fits in my microwave. I try presoaking this one but I don’t think it makes any difference.
This strip also uses all 4 bending forms but without any spacers.
After checking my templates I find that I need a little more ash to match the trim at the notch at the back of the panel. I cut a small patch and bend it with the microwave and clamp it to my form. Then I edge glue it to the panel.
I also need to add a strip to the bottom of the notch.
Now I have enough material to work with.
While routing a 1/8” radius on the edges I miss stopping the radius at one of the corners. It’s time for a patch. First I cut out the unwanted radiused edge.
Then I cut a patch piece and trim it to match the grain.
It’s not perfect but it’s close.
I had a splinter break off along the top trim. A small patch filled it in.
Now I have all the pieces to the correct size and shape.
The next step is to sand everything to 320 grit and cover with 3 coats of epoxy. Then I mask off the panel.
Starting with the top trim piece I epoxy each one in place and work my way counter-clockwise. The epoxy is thickened with Cab-O-Sil. I wait a few hours between each piece to let the epoxy set up.
The last 2 pieces of border trim are for the front fender. I added a hole to the form for the addition of a clamp.
The combination of the bent strips and several clamps make this an easy task. (The patch I glued in is in the right end of this strip).
The final step is to epoxy the center trim piece in place. This one is only 0.11” thick and is quite flexible. I’m struggling with how to get clamping pressure across the strip in the middle of the 2 foot wide panel. My son suggests using magnets. It sounds like a good plan to me! I have 11 pairs of neodymium magnets that are 5/8” diameter and 1/8” thick. A quick test shows promise. Here is the strip with one magnet on top.
And paired with a magnet underneath.
This looks promising. I position the magnets along the strip. I now can locate a corresponding magnet below the panel. Once I get it in position I tape it in place.
When I glued the first bent strip in place I didn’t use enough clamping and ended up with a bit of a gap in the middle of the strip.
The gap is pretty deep in some places.
Since this is my last glue up it’s time to fill in the gap. A little bit of thickened epoxy takes care of this. The magnets did an acceptable job of clamping. More would be better.
This is a good spot to wrap up this part. Total hours are now up to about 160. In the next part I’ll get the panel off the forms.
Steve, this project requires a phenomenal amount of imagination, creativity and forethought to achieve success and you, and your son of course, have conquered the tasks at hand with masterful & talented success. Terrific work here, two thumbs up for your dedication to such detailed processes. 👍👍
Love the magnet trick! I used to buy those things just because they are fun. I have a pair of discs, 2" diameter by 1" thick, 250 lb. pull. Crazy dangerous to let them within one foot of each other and now I see a whole world of glue-up possibilities for them and some of my others 👍
Magnets out of old speakers are really strong. I have one on my anvil and if I get a hammer too close, it gets stuck. They are usually big and sandwiched between metal plates, but the magnets themselves can be broken easily and freed from the plates.
"Duck and Bob would be out doin some farming with funny hats on." chrisstef
Here is a broken one I have, it appears the plates are held together by the force of the magnet. When I push on the center button, I can move them apart. If it wasn't already broken, the magnet would come out in one piece. Not sure all are made the same.
"Duck and Bob would be out doin some farming with funny hats on." chrisstef
Alinco magnet Duck. The things that look like screw heads are just rivets with the split used to spread them out. Usually you can grind them down and remove the plate, but often the core is glued to the other plate. Of course that combo turns them into a magnet with both poles on the same side just like a horseshoe magnet.
As a kid, I was always stripping speakers for those.