After cleaning off the "shipping lubricant" from a cast iron surface with WD40, can I apply Johnsons paste wax for rust protection? Any concern with incompatibility? I did try to remove all the WD40 with a blue shop paper towel.
Myself, I'd wipe the working surfaces with the same blue shop towel, but with some solvent in it (lacquer thinner, acetone, etc.) just to get the bare metal back before paste wax.
Although you are probably fine with what you have done.
barb i use BOESHIELD T9 for rust protection. ive found it works very well. developed by BOEING. but paste wax should be fine. and congrats on the new Cutech !!! 👍 enjoy !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
I don't think I have any lacquer thinner or anything like that (I'll check). Don't want to mess it up! The manual said to use WD40 to clean the rust protection gunk off (gunk is my term). I typically use paste wax, but never have done so after WD40.
i never use wd40 as a protectant. ive used johnsons paste wax but now i just use the boeshield. im sure others will give their opinions too! barb dont stress this, you wont mess it up, and by chance you do, it's an easy fix 😎 i know when we get a new machine we dont wanna do something that will cause a problem !
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
I was "forced" to use WD40 to get the gunk off the surface (that was the suggested method from Cutech). I wiped that off as much as possible. I've run a few boards through, and then wanted to add some rust protection. My go-to has been Johnson's paste wax (yes, I still have some!!). That has worked fine, but concerned on what impact the prior WD40 would have on the subsequent application of wax.
And I already somehow had contact between a cutter and the guard 🥺. Didn't seem to do much beyond marring the paint on the guard.
Found a little denatured alcohol to clean and then did the paste wax. Seems ok! Plus adjusted the guard with my husband's help holding it while I tightened the screws. Should be ready to go tomorrow! Already ran a few boards and it is so smooth.
your good barb, just apply some wax in between uses and you'll be fine. try the boeshield out, it works great here for me being about 5 miles from the coast.
working with my hands is a joy,it gives me a sense of fulfillment,somthing so many seek and so few find.-SAM MALOOF.
For squaring the fence, I struggled a bit as I'm don't understand the adjustment for the "stops" at 90 and 135 (suppose to let me quickly go back to those settings). Not sure if I messed these up, but finally gave up and just got it square without the "stop" as I see 90 as my default for now.
Just my opinion, but I’d find 90° and lock it off, never to move again. Get it tight, and make sure it doesn’t move. The joiner is to make things square….IMO, if you want another angle, pick another tool to get you there…
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
RyanGi- that's what I'm thinking. I have it firmly at 90, checked with engineer's square. Ran a face and edge, and that looked good too. Need to work on my technique (had some faint "pause" lines on the face), but seeing how useful this tool will be.
Potz, I used Johnson's as a final coat for my finishes for 30 years, but my can got to where it came out blotchy. It had been regenerated with mineral spitits many times.
I switched to Varathane's Finishing Wax and it beats the Johnsons by a large margin.
Have not used it of steel, but the look and feel on wood is great.
I am not a fan of Boshield T-9 for protecting cast iron tops and tools. Looking at the SDS, my interpretation is that it appears to basically be Vaseline (petroleum jelly) and an oil with a bunch of solvents and an emulsifier. It has a small amount (<6%) of sodium sulfonate which inhibits corrosion. I much prefer paste wax for protecting against rust. T-9 does seem to work but it takes a while to dry and I always feel like I need to wipe most of it off while it is still wet. Perhaps it is better for when you live near the ocean?
--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.
'Round here it is very dry so rust isn't an issue. I really like the paste wax just because everything seems to float along and actually seems to improve miter consistency with a miter gauge as it just glides along. When the TS turns into the glue up station, the squeeze out blobs can be just flicked off with a finger. Never have tried the dedicated products, I'm sure they do the job well but was always turned off by the price. Of course now I think they are actually cheaper than the Johnson's 🙄
There's other brands of paste wax out there. Everyone is just used to Johnson's. I like T-9 better than paste wax. In the spring with some of our wide range of temperature swings there has been a fees times the cast iron tops had condensation on them. The T9 seems to last longer.
I used to buy it in the grocery store for about $4. Still have a mostly fresh can, it is a bit more "pasty" than the other brands I have, but not $246 better.
I'll use it on my tools and caul boards until it is gone, then sell the empty can for maybe $50?
