Paint over shellac?

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Not really woodworking, but does relate to frames.  Years ago, before I got into woodworking I bought some frames (I know, hard to believe given my frame-building self that I now am!).  They have a really unique insert/back that holds photos. 

The fronts have fade marks so I want to paint these inserts.

I sprayed with shellac and wonder if I need a particular type of paint, or if I can use leftover from other home projects.  

28 Replies

Are they wood fronts?

If you wanted a smooth finish, I'd think about a rattle can primer close to your final color choice then use more rattle can spray for the finish. Check it in raking light before priming to see if there are any sags or other defects from the shellac (scuff sand to smooth any out)

You could brush on, but then there is dealing with brush marks....
No, it's paper of some sort.  Hopefully I didn't mess it up with the shellac 😬
If the shellac did no harm, then you have it sealed up good 😀
Shellac can be used over virtually anything. It shines best if over a smooth surface though. Sags and runs as Splint suggested can make the end result look less than perfect.

The rattle can approach has the potential for the best end finish, but using spray paint is a muscle memory kind of exercise, and if you want flawless doing some trial sprays will not hurt in getting you up to speed. I also find one of those sprayer handles allows you to do better. Combo of hand ease, and not having to think about that pinpoint spray button.



Old house paint certainly can be used, but it does come with those brush strokes. If that is your best option look to see if a foam roller can cover the trim on your frames, if so using them will make for a smoother surface.
The roller is a great way to get a somewhat textured surface that would be nice and even.
Shellac seems ok (sprayed it).  I think I'll try rolling some paint I have left over and see how it goes. I can always make a new backer board if this little project is a flop!

Thanks for the suggestions!
Shellac is used as a primer. It’ll stick to darn near anything, and darn near any paint will stick to shellac. Knock yourself out, Barb!

May you have the day you deserve!

Dave - will have to try as right now there is a big gap on my wall of dog pictures!!  
Yep, Shellac is sometimes called the universal primer.  I have heard that Polyurethane can have problems but others say it works fine.  Dewaxed shellac is probably better than the rattle can stuff.  Seal coat is a dewaxed shellac based primer but I have never seen it in a spray can.  

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

I always used dewaxed shellac for just that reason: It sticks to everything, and everything sticks to it!!

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

I may have, but can't ever remember using waxed shellac, ever.


 Lazyman

Seal coat is a dewaxed shellac based primer but I have never seen it in a spray can.  

Nathan, look at Zinzer Bullseye Shellac My Wife lives with it, on her baskets, Fast easy application, 100% wax free, so all the attributes of any other dewaxed. Easy cleanup. Pretty much foolproof
George - that Zinser shellac is what I used
I don't see anything about it being dewaxed?  The Zinsser shellac in a can is not dewaxed and I assume the rattle can version is the same stuff?  Their Seal Coat sanding sealer is dewaxed shellac but since their rattle can shellac does not mentioned being dewaxed, I would assume it is not.  It might not hurt to wipe down the surface of the shellac after it dries with some mineral spirits to remove any wax that may be on the surface.  Just a theory but the MS should not hurt the shellac.  It would be nice if they would sell a rattle can version of the Seal Coat. 

BTW, I've read that one way to dewax or at least remove some of the wax of the standard stuff is to put it in the freezer.  The wax will congeal and when you pour it through a paint strainer, much, if not most, of the wax will be captured by the strainer.  IIRC, if you repeat the process a couple of times (let it warm up and refreeze), you will remove even more of the wax.  Of course, it is simpler to buy just dewaxed shellac flakes and mix up your own but this might do in a pinch.

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

Shellac is the universal sealer/primer for any finish. Anything goes over shellac!  I have used regular shellac under clear finishes but the norm is to use dewaxed shellac. It now comes under the name of Zinsser Sealcoat. I looked at some at Woodcraft yesterday...it was $79 a gallon. The last gallon I bought was 4 years ago for $49 at Menards but they don't always have it

Cheers, Jim ........................ Variety is the spice of life...............Learn something new every day

Here's the label of the can I used and it says "Because Spray Shellac is 100% wax-free, it can be used as a sealer under polyurethane and other finishes."   Nice and convenient to use when needed.  :) 

Well there you go! Paint it up!

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".

Nice to to know!  No worries then.  

--Nathan, TX. Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

That was what I knew from the can. Their advertising strangely doesn't bring it up, it's like it's no big deal? 

Barb I figured that is what you used. AFAIK they are the only spray can dewaxed shellac sold, but they have the market cornered, so it's possible there are minor players I am not aware of?
Painted this afternoon.  Decided to not try for smooth perfection but rather made the foam brush marks show a bit.  I did that with some frames and my husband liked it so will see how this looks.  🤷‍♀️
Pics!

Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".