chair

My last pair of blanks are for the armrests.  I started by planing them down to 5/8" thick, which is the final thickness for rear of the armrest.  ...

As with the other replica chairs I've made, it requires spending quite a bit of time looking at example photos from different angles in order to ma...

I completed the remaining stretcher mortises in the two pair of front legs and trimmed the outline on the test stretcher.    [20241124-IMG_9577.jpg...

With all the tenons cut on the stretcher blanks, I used a router template to cut them to final shape.  I used the test front stretcher as my templa...

This step is out of order compared to the actual sequence of the build, but it seemed to make sense to present it now.  The back receives a set of ...

Simultaneously aligning all 4 components of a side assembly gave me fits.  Very slight errors in length and/or angles meant that as I sequentially ...

With all the major shaping and sanding completed, I had one last task before glue-up, and that was to pre-drill the seat frame for all the L-nails....

While I had been thinking about how to make the arms from the time I had started scheming to build this chair, by the time I got to this point, I s...

There were a couple things I wanted to verify before the final glue-up: • Could I keep the paracord lacing tight enough so that it would support a ...

As mentioned earlier, the armrest will fit into a 1/8" deep recess on the top of the arm.  I made this router jig (from scraps) to use to cut the r...

The visible front edge of the seat frame is a full 1" thick, but tapers to 3/4" thick on the back side. The sides and back of the frame are all 3/4...

To cut the mortises for the stretchers (front/rear lower stretchers and upper rear stretcher), I needed a couple more jigs.  In these, I used a com...