I have a Leigh D4 and I'm interested in adding finger/box joints to the mix. The F3 (with guide bushings) currently goes for $270 or so but F2s will pop up on the used market occasionally, usually bundled with a D4/R/Pro.
As far as I can see, the primary difference between the older F2 and current F3 is that they're made for different adjustable bushings - the older VGS and newer elliptical e-bushings, respectively. Are there any other meaningful differences between them? Should I expect similar results between them? Any reasons to stay away from the older template/guides guide bushings?
With the above in mind, would a used F2 and VGS make sense at a reasonable discount from the price of the F3?
I have a D4. I'll have to dig out the book and see what it says for finger joints. I thought you could do box joints without doing anything special. Now I just have to remember to remind myself to check.
I have a D4. I'll have to dig out the book and see what it says for finger joints. I thought you could do box joints without doing anything special. Now I just have to remember to remind myself to check.
I know that the upgrade kit comes with a spacer to to either 3/8 or 3/4 fingers. The F2 and F3 do somewhere around 10 sizes and seems a little less fussy.
I also have a D4R and in a moment of weakness... maybe spurred on by the vapours of some C₂H₆O... I purchased their F3M jig. The instructions, like all their other manuals are helpful, however, after the initial test run after purchase, it has hardly seen daylight. For me, finger/box joints are for quick/dirty jobs and if I chose drag out the D4R, I finish up going for the dovetail. When I truly want a quick dirty, I'll go the Incra.
I won't say it's the worst item I've bough for a long time, however, it's down the list of my better moves.
If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD
Thanks for the input, Duck. I did see the iBox, but I can't (efficiently) use it on my little table saw and it's more than I really wanted to spend, anyway. And yeah, I agree that box joints will mostly be used for, uh... let's say "utilitarian" stuff.
Anyhoo, I did end up talking to a guy selling a D4R and F2 bundle yesterday, and convinced him to part with the F2 and all of the necessary guide bushings for 100 bucks. I'll play with it when I get home in a few days, but I think that ought to have my box joints needs covered.
I also have a D4R and in a moment of weakness... maybe spurred on by the vapours of some C₂H₆O... I purchased their F3M jig. The instructions, like all their other manuals are helpful, however, after the initial test run after purchase, it has hardly seen daylight. For me, finger/box joints are for quick/dirty jobs and if I chose drag out the D4R, I finish up going for the dovetail. When I truly want a quick dirty, I'll go the Incra.
I won't say it's the worst item I've bough for a long time, however, it's down the list of my better moves.
If you have to refer to the manual every time you use it, you aren't using it enough. I use mine two or three times a year and have to refer to the manual every time!
According to Leighs website the F2 makes 9 sizes of joints, 1/16" to 1/2". The F3 makes 11 sizes of joints, from 3/32" to 1". Otherwise they are very similar.
