I’d say start by reading the instructions, for real. There’s some great info in there especially about settings on the machine. There’s a setting that allows you to widen the mortise when cut (thickness stays the same as the loose tenon, but the slot is wider side to side). Several settings actually. If you use the tightest setting, the loose tenon will fit snugly in all directions. This is great for alignment as it insures that specific mortise lines up right where you want it. For additional mortises you’re cutting in, I’d suggest you back that setting off by one spot. This will make the tenon loose (left to right) which means if you’re slightly off with where you cut the mortise, it isn’t a big deal. If you use the tightest setting for all the mortises along the piece, and one is off by just a little, you’ll have a hell of a time getting the joint to go together cleanly.
That leads me to another hint, when you drawing alignment marks on the two pieces you’re going to joint, use a square to draw/clean up the lines. The sight gauge on the domino uses a thin, black alignment mark. If your pencil marks aren’t straight (and perpendicular to the edge) it’s harder to get the domino to line up properly. When using the tightest tenon width setting, this could end up being a problem. Again, not as much of an issue with the wider settings…
I think my biggest takeaway is that the domino will give you precise joints…if you take time to be sure everything is square and clean, and you’ve done a precise job setting you’re alignment marks. Of course, you can always make everything a bit sloppy, then align the joint manually during the glue up, but mine don’t always come out well that way!
It’s an easy tool to use, and an easy tool to use well!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".