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Solid topic Pottzy.
For the table saw, I use Diablo 24T and 50T for ripping and crosscut, they’re both ATB, and work great for disposable blades. It’s an underpowered saw, so all my blades are thin kerf…
I’ve got a Freud Industrial 24T FTG for small, one-off dados (using the Stumpy Nubs model) and box joints, and have a DeWalt dado stack for repeated cuts. It actually does a halfway good job, but the Freud blade is certainly better.
For plywood or melamine, I’ve got an old Disston 108T extra thin kerf (7/64”) that I was gifted in a stack of old blades.
I also broke down and bought a beautiful Ridge Carbide 7° left tilt dovetail blade. I don’t use it a ton, since I usually hand-cut my dovetails but, if I’ve got to do a bunch, I’ll start the tails with the TS just because it’s so fast to get them all started.
For the 10” bandsaw I use sawblades.com blades. They’re inexpensive and work well for me. On the 16” saw, since it’s almost always used for resawing, I’ve got a 112” x 1/2” Woodslicer blade on it. Wonderful blade!
The little scroll saw has Olson 5” pin-end blades….if those count for this study…
I’ve got a mishmash of jigsaw blades, and usually use the Milwaukee Torch blades on the recip saw.
On the other side of the shop (metal), on the Evolution slow-speed (chop) saw I use their carbide tipped house blades. They work great and can be sharpened at least once which makes their price more attractive since they don’t last forever. I’ve still got a guy who sharpens carbide, so it works out. The carbide tipped metal cutting blades are just awesome…when they’re sharp. Great cuts, minimal sparking, quick and clean. But that doesn’t last long on steel so it’s nice to be able to resharpen them.
On the metal bandsaw, I’ve got 64” Olson bi-metal blades that seem to go forever…or maybe I need to replace it. I should probably check on that 🤔
I think covers most all of them!
For the table saw, I use Diablo 24T and 50T for ripping and crosscut, they’re both ATB, and work great for disposable blades. It’s an underpowered saw, so all my blades are thin kerf…
I’ve got a Freud Industrial 24T FTG for small, one-off dados (using the Stumpy Nubs model) and box joints, and have a DeWalt dado stack for repeated cuts. It actually does a halfway good job, but the Freud blade is certainly better.
For plywood or melamine, I’ve got an old Disston 108T extra thin kerf (7/64”) that I was gifted in a stack of old blades.
I also broke down and bought a beautiful Ridge Carbide 7° left tilt dovetail blade. I don’t use it a ton, since I usually hand-cut my dovetails but, if I’ve got to do a bunch, I’ll start the tails with the TS just because it’s so fast to get them all started.
For the 10” bandsaw I use sawblades.com blades. They’re inexpensive and work well for me. On the 16” saw, since it’s almost always used for resawing, I’ve got a 112” x 1/2” Woodslicer blade on it. Wonderful blade!
The little scroll saw has Olson 5” pin-end blades….if those count for this study…
I’ve got a mishmash of jigsaw blades, and usually use the Milwaukee Torch blades on the recip saw.
On the other side of the shop (metal), on the Evolution slow-speed (chop) saw I use their carbide tipped house blades. They work great and can be sharpened at least once which makes their price more attractive since they don’t last forever. I’ve still got a guy who sharpens carbide, so it works out. The carbide tipped metal cutting blades are just awesome…when they’re sharp. Great cuts, minimal sparking, quick and clean. But that doesn’t last long on steel so it’s nice to be able to resharpen them.
On the metal bandsaw, I’ve got 64” Olson bi-metal blades that seem to go forever…or maybe I need to replace it. I should probably check on that 🤔
I think covers most all of them!
Ryan/// ~sigh~ I blew up another bowl. Moke told me "I made the inside bigger than the outside".
