Finish question

Rattlecan lacquer.

Monty, you can try super blonde shellac to pop the grain then top coat that with a super clear finish such as Target’s EM9000. I am certain there are other super clear water based top coatings, but this is the one with which I am familiar. Water bornes are the only option IMO because any oil based product will cause the wood to darken somewhat whereas WB products won’t. As always, test your entire finishing schedule on scrap before attacking the completed project. HTH

http://targetcoatings.com/products/interior-top-coats/em9000-super-clear-interior-polyurethane.html

I agree with the shellac, although I must be honest and admit I haven’t used shellac yet. I’ve read a lot about it and it seems like a great way to make the wood really stand out.

I also use shellac on many of my scroll saw projects. I love the soft sheen it gives the wood and I feel that it has a much ‘warmer’ finish than polyurethane.

Shellac may be enough on it’s own, it’s underrated (IMHO) as a final finish and much better than many give it credit for. It’s colorfast and easily repaired if it is damaged, so give it some though. If you do choose to top coat it with a water borne (or poly-anything that’s oil based) be sure to use dewaxed shellac.

Great advice: Use a product that the responder admits to never having used before!

This site is LJs all over again: the halt and the blind.

CWS:

Please go back to Lumberjocks – the members here do not need your ‘helpful’ comments and commentary.
MJCD

I found this site. We both like finish #1 basic stained ash (using the maple stain). If I were to go that route, would I still use shellac, and would I use it before or after staining?

That kind of depends on the balance of what you intend to do. If you intend to top coat with a waterborne, it won’t hurt to use a coat of shellac between it and the stain. You may see a little color shift with the shellac (or anything else that follows). If you go with spray lacquer, I would put it on the stain without shellac.

To CWS: I don’t see that the OP mentioned he hadn’t used shellac, though some of the replies mention it. I’d say you are out of line with that comment, regardless of who it’s targeted at.

Fred, read Light1776’s response.

MJCD, the site owner(s) can exclude me if they wish. Until they do I’ll contribute as I see fit on those subjects about which I have experience and knowledge. You don’t have to read my comments.

My best advice is to have a sample board of the same species as your project (preferably a left over piece from your project) and do a series of tests with finishes you might want to use. For instance, if your sample board is a foot long and you have 3 possibilities for a finish, then section it off for each possibility. Write on the backside what it is, how many coats, et cetera , et cetera. Having a sample board with sample finishes right next to each other to compare and with a description of how you did each may help your decision. So one finish sample doesn’t bleed into the next, leave space between them and mask off those other areas while applying them.
Edit: Forgot to mention this….It is important to prep your sample the same as your project in regards to sanding. Example, if you sand up to and through 150 grit on your project, then do the same with the sample
Good luck !

CWS, I understand your concern with my response. That’s OK. I would rather make it clear I am writing based on what I have seen and read, not what I have actually used. I am certain Monty ill take my comments based on that qualifier. This is the only comment I will make regarding my post.

Well, we decided on the stain route. I used a Minwax “Natural” stain. They also had a maple, but it looked darker than we wanted. I tried the natural on some test pieces and let it dry. That is exactly the look we wanted. It didn’t really darken the wood, but made the grain really stand out. What it really excelled at was making the cherry dovetail keys jump out against the ash. Momma loves it, so I’m happy.
I also found shellac but it was premixed. I think the maker was Zinsser. I didn’t know if that was any good or not, so I didn’t buy it. I’m not ordering any shellac flakes right now. I don’t have any experience with it and I want to at least finish this thing in time for Mothers Day.
So, the two options I am considering are:

1) The premixed shellac

2) Spray can lacquer.

I must admit, I have used a lot of spray can products and have never been impressed with the coverage. I’m hoping for some positive input on the premixed shellac.

The Zinsser shellac is either Seal Coat which is de-waxed or Traditional Finish and Sealer which is waxed. Shellac is relatively easy to apply. Here’s a helpful link from a well known finisher
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/shellac.shtml

I’ve used nitrocellulose spray can lacquer with great success. The coverage issue may be the number of coats applied. Typically about 4 coats will do the job, more if you intend on rubbing it out.

I don’t want to recommend one over the other. It is a personal preference. As stated above my best advice is to use a sample board. Do tests with both to see which has the best result for you

I know I’m late, but Top Choice: make your own shellac. 1-1/2 pound cut. I’ve used every type of finish imaginable, including sprayed Dupont Imron paint. But because shellac is old and not trendy, I never used it until I revitalized my part-time woodworking. I keep a cup of shellac mixed all the time now and it’s my only choice for nice stuff. 2 coats and steel wool. 1 final coat, steel wool and then Renaissance wax.

Thanks David. In the end I went with the Zinsser. I scuffed with 2000 grit between coats (3) and finished with 2 coats of carnauba wax. It really made the grain stand out.