Glue

I have a collection of over 20 different types of glues for wood use, and over 20 for other materials. I also mix and /or dilute some glues depending on the grains. I have used hide glue only a few times but I want to start using hot hide for the ability to separate the pieces when required. I have experimented and tested many different types and strengths over the years and I use various methods depending on humidity of the wood, ambient humidity and temperature, the oil content and openness of the grain, and mixing different types of wood. I keep a small journal with every job entered, the front of the book has glue up details, the back contains stain and finish details. This comes in handy if you ever have to make a repair years later. I always guarantee every piece I make for life no matter what. I will buy back any piece for the original price no quibble. I have bought back only 3 so far and resold the items for more than original, and the customers reordered another item as well.

That’s a great policy.

I mainly use titebond 1 and 3, although I picked up a jug of 2 last night because they were out of the 1. We’ll see how that goes. I’ve used gorilla polyurethane glue (nasty stuff) and PVC pipe cement for acrylic.

I’d like to try HHG but I don’t think I do enough gluing to justify the cost of the kettle and the setup (warming) time before use. It doesn’t really lend itself to spur-of-the-moment glue ups. Maybe I’ll have a project that comes up where HHG would be more practical and then I would buy the equipment.

Titebond 2 is what I mostly use, except on table tops. I’ve had so much problem with glue creep on a top I glue those up with plastic resin glue. It’s actually my favorite, but the hassle of using it keeps me from using it more often.

Since I discovered hot hide glue a few years ago I have used almost nothing else. I do use liquid hide glue (Old Brown Glue) if I need more open time but unless it is outdoor or boat related where I use quality epoxies, I can find little reason to use anything but hide glues.

Fred, Old Brown Glue will solve the creep problem without the formaldehyde and high clamping pressures of UF. Creep and expanding/contracting glue lines are a major reason I don’t use PVAs any more along of course with the finish blocking problems that they create.

I use Titebond on most , 2 part epoxy gun system, E6000 & other contact glues.
Thanks to all for sharing the great information about gluing.

Shipwright, I agree with the old brown glue, and I’ve used it where I need really long assembly times (I have a corner cabinet in Creations that I assembled with Old Brown Glue). I also like the non-impact it has on finishes. But it has it’s share of problems as well…like a short shelf life and being fairly expensive. It seemed to me that while it may take less clamp pressure, it has just as long a clamp time. Even so, I’ll use it but only rarely. For all their issues, it’s really hard to be the convenience of PVAs.

Thanks everyone for your input . I wondered about the hide glue , but if it has to be heated ? I’m limited to 3 hrs a day in my shop , so I think I will stick with the tight bond .

Im a tight bong guy. I use original for fast tack then two on most of my projects however 3 on anything thats going to be around moisture. Ive been trying there translucent glue lately and its pretty good so far. Now they have a Florence glue that I want to experiment with. It says all your glue joints will glow when the lights are turned off. I think it would be kinda cool to some artsy modern design build with it.
Ive used gorilla glue no issues with that but once turned onto tight bond I haven’t used gorilla glue since.

I used titebond I, II and III.
I have been buying titebond III for the last 3 years. I usually buy a gallon and refill the 16 ounce bottle;it’s cheaper. The gallon last me a long while.

I use epoxy, CA on occasions and gorilla glue only once.
Contact cement both water base and solvent based were pretty handy for some situations.

I have also been using hot hide glue with mixed results. The mixed results are due mainly to my inexperience with hammering.
Hot hide is fairly easy to make and use. it does not take hours to “cook” few minutes really.

I made liquid hide and got more than 30 minutes of open time by adding 25% salt by weight. You can do the same thing with urea.
There are many recipes online to do that.
I just veneered several panels for a project I am working on using hot hide with good results.

My take is some glue works better than others for some tasks.

“My take is some glue works better than others for some tasks.”

Best statement yet, just like finishes (and maybe a dozen other things). Best to choose each for the job at hand.

The one thing I am about to suggest about glue is do your research on Google. If you know your wood but dont know the chemical make up of the wood ig..oily/not oily, open grain/closed grain Etc.. look up your wood online. Then go to tight bonds website and see what’s going to be best.
http://www.titebond.com/index.aspx
INTERNET REFERENCES:

Wood Properties by Connected Lines www.connectedlines.com/wood/index.htm
Specific Gravity Weights of Materials From READE www.reade.com/particle_briefings/spec_gra2.hlml
American Hardwood Species Guide www.hardwoodinfo.com > … > Species Guide
Lewis Lumber Products – Wood Characteristics www.lewislp.com/woodchar.asp
Know Your Woods – Frontgate www.frontgate.com/wcsstore/images/Frontgate/…/wood_types.html
Wood –Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood
The Woodbox.com – All About Woods www.thewoodbox.com/data/wood/redoakinfo.htm
Wood Colors and Kinds – U.S. Dept. of Agriculture Oct. 1956 www.naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/CAT87208602/PDF
Lumber Species – Exotic Hardwood Lumber and Woodworkers www.theworkbench.com/species/species.php
The Woodshop www.kebwebs.com/edgeart/WOOD.HTM
The Wood Database www.wood-database.com/lumber-identification/hardwoods/bubinga/
TUKTU PADDLES Wood Selection Guide www.tuktopaddles.com/woodselection.html
Johnny’s Checkered Boxes www.johnnysboxes.com/woodtypesexotic.php
Woodworkers Source www.woodworkerssource.com
- See more at: http://www.leeswoodprojects.com/species/#.dpuf

Well with all the help I received I should be able to get the right glue for the job .
Thanks gentlemen

I find PVA is good for most general gluing jobs, but I have to say I do like Everbuild Resintite (very similar to Titebond 2 I believe). For jobs where water ingress or humid atmospheres are concerned I do use Forbo “Balcotan” 60 100 as it is reccomended by boatbuilders here in the UK. It is a one part polyurethane adhesive. I used this for bonding the four large blocks of Lime (Tilia Species) that I used for carving the Chinthe for the Chindits Old Comrades Association and the glue lines did not show in the finished bronze casting taken from it.