band saw help

It comes down on resaw capacity, both in resaw height and power.

I had the powermatic 14" bandsaw. a great tool but hit the resaw capacity very early on.
Another limitation is the throat width when cutting curves.

When I bought the powermatic I did not think too much.

I now have the G0513X2 17" BANDSAW 2HP. It works great for me.

As a grizzly owner i would go with the G0513anv. I have a 14" and would love to cut stock greater than 6 " however i know individuals that actually have that model and love it. I would order it.

As Ianwater said it’s all about capacity and power. The larger the better because you will find so many uses for that extra capacity, like effortless sawing of wide veneers, and small logs. Also important, but not often mentioned is the capacity to rip thick planks. So much easier than running those through your table saw. I have an 18" bandsaw and I wouldn’t trade it for anything.

Looks like the 513ANV is the clear winner. I’ll probably order it tonight. Thanks folks!

Sounds like a plan. Ill pm you with my address. Lol As a Grizzly owner you’ll love it. Just remember to keep up maintenance and it’ll last you a life time. After you get some money back in your pocket, (as a suggestion) I’d think about upgrading your blade guides and rollers. Like ceramic blocks And thrust bearings. The reason I state this is if you’re resawing a lot of green wood, the sap wood doesn’t stick to the ceramic or ceramic bearings as it does to regular bearings. Just a thought for you to research. Well congratulations on your new bandsaw. Hope to see your review on it after you do so cutting.

Ceramic guide is a good idea.I don’t resaw green but you can pretty much bury your Blade in them without much heat.

Boy did I learn a lot today at the wooding show in Milwaukee, WI . The carter bandsaw guides are awesome. If you’re interested look them up. I saw first hand how fast and easy to install and there was no heat at all on the blade after the guy just torked the blade in every direction. Also you can completely back out of cuts without moving or making the blade come off the wheels.

I have the G555, for the most part I like the saw. I also purchased the six inch riser block witch helps with the resawing. However I have problems resawing, I don’t know if it’s me or the saw. I’m getting better, I’m slowing down working with tensioning and I made a couple of straight cuts. I’m also thinking about rewireing to 220, it made a difference in my table saw.

Jimbotac make sure that 1/16" behind the gullets ride the center of your wheels. Thats where you want the tention on the blade. then you want to make sure that the tail of the blade is 1/16" of the thrust bearing. By doing this you wont get any teeth drift from left or right. Next, you dont want to force your wood through. If your gullets dont maintain sawdust in them thats when you also get the chatter and teeth drift.

Two things help a lot when resawing . One is power and the other is a wide blade. I use a 5/8" blade which is somewhat of a compromise, but the wider blades prevent deflection. The disadvantage is that you have to change blades to cut a tight radius. Of course the width of boards while resawing will also make a difference. Wider boards, more power desired.

Had this same choice to make a month ago and the wife told me to get the bigger one so she never has to hear me mention the word upgrade. I picked up a 3/4" 3-4 tpi blade to go with it. I tensioned till I didn’t see blade flutter, put the guide bearings against the blade just behind the gullet and gave each side of the blade a light flick with the finger before tightening the bearings. Gave the blade a light push back before tighten the rear guide pulleys. I’ve since sawn 8" mahogany with no curve in the cut front to back or top to bottom. Also sliced some 5" purpleheart and 6" beech. Don’t know if keeping it 240v helps or not but it doesn’t complain, cuts straight and seems reasonably fast to me.