Sorry, I'm late to the party and just skimmed the comments so if any of this is redundant, I apologize.
My thoughts on micro-adjusting for fences in general are this is the way to go: Lets you move it to .001" accuracy which is overkill for wood but better to be too close than not close enough! For something like a drill press or router table where the fence doesn't need to be square to the tool, I leave one end of the fence fixed, set the indicator close to the spindle and tap the other end of the fence to get the change I need. Using that method does loose you some accuracy because your measuring the change of a leg of a triangle while altering the angle of the hypotenuse but it's plenty good enough for wood working.
My drill press table is very similar to the one Hairy shows in the first comment. When I first built it, I machined some aluminum keys to fit the t-track so the whole fence moved together. Those keys are long since gone because they hang and bind and I found it was quicker for me just to use an indicator and not worry about whether it stayed square to the tracks since in reality all that really matters is the radius from the centerline of the spindle to the tangent to the fence. Doesn't matter a bit what the angle if incidence is.
So am I saying a drill press table is useless? Not at all. I wouldn't be without mine. It gives a much larger surface to work on and allows for all kinds of custom jigs. So by all means, make or buy one and if you want the fence to run linearly, make it happen. And micro-adjusts are great. I just feel better seeing exactly how far I moved it rather than trusting that I moved it the amount I thought I did.
Hope that helps some and again, if it's a rehash of what others have said, apologies!
