HokieKen- if you watch the video I linked you’ll see for yourself. The planer is listed as being 15A. But even with the OEM cutter head, during passes, Snekker recorded amp draws around 27A iirc. Might not be a 100% continuous draw at that level, but would reach that level every time you did a cut, not just at the very startup. It ties into continuous draw vs peak current as it pertains to tripping a breaker, and I don’t know enough about electrical breaker safety features to understand why it still works without tripping the breaker (not the one in a power strip but like the one in a home’s breaker box)
Responding to SplinterGroup- your comment “there is more than just the power cord that is light duty in a power strip” that’s what I figured, thanks for confirming. Also, I hadn’t seen Ross Leidy’s design. It’s super different from others that I’ve noticed, so definitely worth seeing. With that said, I think I’m going to try to devise my own solution and it’s slightly different than his.
So as for the wiring- just like Ross mentioned and as can be seen in other flip top cart builds on YouTube
https://youtu.be/WXQ707IvutI?si=n7iDHm7tjYUKc-cq and
https://youtu.be/NNMK-MdnLec?si=YfhwZFpKuWW2Wfa6 I’m going to need to cut off the plug if I want to route the wiring through the tube. Then reinstall a different plug end. As per Corelz125 ‘s recommendation, I might as well look at using a 10AWG cord instead of a 12AWG one, just to give me a little more peace of mind given the current. That poses the question of which replacement plug to order. All of the ones I’ve seen thus far that maintain the normal USA three prong outlet configuration are only rated to 15A. But I don’t have much choice in the matter given that the machine runs off those regular outlets as it is. So I guess at a bare minimum, I need to find one that will accept the added diameter of 10AWG wire in its opening. Any recommendations?