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If you do decide to make it work, look over Patricks piece really well, and anything else you can find on the 130's. That thin strap of metal on the bullnose side is easily broken. My suggestion is not to do any tapping, just adjust via the wheel, and use your firgertip as a feeler to check for blade projection. Careful when it's sharp.
Unless you figure out something I never could, it's an unending series of trial cuts, then it looks right for a few strokes, then without doing any adjustment you are making test cuts again. Sort of a maddening process is what I found. Why I switched to the Lee Valley planes for when I wanted a user of a block plane.
Unless you figure out something I never could, it's an unending series of trial cuts, then it looks right for a few strokes, then without doing any adjustment you are making test cuts again. Sort of a maddening process is what I found. Why I switched to the Lee Valley planes for when I wanted a user of a block plane.
