Lazyman
replied about 6 hours ago
I just do not like TB PVA glues unless I need some water resistance.   Elmers wood glue is better in my experience.

I don't mind TB stuff if the price is better, but most of the time a gallon of Elmers comes in winner. I've been using it before I ever saw TB anything, and can't say if I had a fair coverage, that I've never had a failure. I am NOT a thick/heavy/excessive applicator of glue, just enough so approximated the 2 sides make for a little squeeze out, A lot less cleanup afterward that way. I see so many just glop it on, and a river squishes out. I think that is the biggest reason for people wanting to use cauls, trying to control the slip and slide machine. The right amount and you can start a little rub joint, and then just clamp. Salt????? I think all the manufacturers say it isn't good for the glue up. 

For wet conditions I like TBIII, don't really like it, but it does do a good job if it will get wet.

Old Brown glue is decent if you need a longer set. I used to use a pot with liquid hide, but what a HUGE PIA to keep that going.

More and more I am using a mix of CA thick, and Elmers for a Now and Later mix. Not blended, but dots along the line so it's one or the other. I wouldn't do it on a tabletop, but to adhere joints, and a lot of non stress areas it's fine.

CA thin is hard to beat if you need to sneak something down into a crack.

I've found all of them do ok for lasting if stored upside down, Get the glue at the top, and AIR can't get at the top, and cause it to set in the container. This especially true with Franklins TB products.



For actual application I am having a hard time imagining something better than a Glue Bot, unless it's a baby glue bot. 

I don't like a glued fingertip, and these silicone brushes kick major buttocks. On BIG glue ups a silicone roller works. Just let it dry. Later you can almost shake the dried glue out. Good as new.