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Thanks.
Yeah, Tom. Sharp tools, and they get dull fast if you’re using HSS tools. I have a couple “cryo” bowl gouges that I’ll use, but most of the time I bust out the carbide tools for the epoxy turning. They do a better job of getting most of the bulk turned away without chip-out, as long as I’ve let the epoxy cure completely (I didn’t this time).
The carbide tools will not leave as good of a surface as really sharp HSS tools (there’s always a trade off), so I’ll finish either with freshly sharpened HSS or pop on the dust mask and get out the progressive sheets of sandpaper.
The other thing that can be tricky with turning resin is that it’s similar to turning air on a piece with a crack. The resin is harder than the wood, so when your tool is on the wood, if you let it move too deep, you’ll catch when the edge of the resin comes along. Not a big catch like with a skew where you got the wrong corner down, but still enough to possibly chip some resin rather than cutting it cleanly.
If you’re going to get started, pens are nice practice, because the tools are smaller and cheaper, as are the blanks. You can practice with about a half-dozen different kinds of plastics. Also, practice turning air on pieces that are just wood. It’ll improve your skills when you switch to mixed wood and resin.
Finally, good dust collection and a mask. You don’t want to be inhaling plastic chips and shavings, and at least here in the desert, they will stick to everything. I generally figure after a bowl like this, I’ll need to do one of my more thorough cleanings to get rid of the plastic. As when turning juniper (which gives me an allergic reaction), I come in and head straight to the shower after turning plastic, or I’m in trouble for getting “pretty dust” all over the house. It’s even worse than having an exotic dancer “mark her territory” with glitter, I hear.
Yeah, Tom. Sharp tools, and they get dull fast if you’re using HSS tools. I have a couple “cryo” bowl gouges that I’ll use, but most of the time I bust out the carbide tools for the epoxy turning. They do a better job of getting most of the bulk turned away without chip-out, as long as I’ve let the epoxy cure completely (I didn’t this time).
The carbide tools will not leave as good of a surface as really sharp HSS tools (there’s always a trade off), so I’ll finish either with freshly sharpened HSS or pop on the dust mask and get out the progressive sheets of sandpaper.
The other thing that can be tricky with turning resin is that it’s similar to turning air on a piece with a crack. The resin is harder than the wood, so when your tool is on the wood, if you let it move too deep, you’ll catch when the edge of the resin comes along. Not a big catch like with a skew where you got the wrong corner down, but still enough to possibly chip some resin rather than cutting it cleanly.
If you’re going to get started, pens are nice practice, because the tools are smaller and cheaper, as are the blanks. You can practice with about a half-dozen different kinds of plastics. Also, practice turning air on pieces that are just wood. It’ll improve your skills when you switch to mixed wood and resin.
Finally, good dust collection and a mask. You don’t want to be inhaling plastic chips and shavings, and at least here in the desert, they will stick to everything. I generally figure after a bowl like this, I’ll need to do one of my more thorough cleanings to get rid of the plastic. As when turning juniper (which gives me an allergic reaction), I come in and head straight to the shower after turning plastic, or I’m in trouble for getting “pretty dust” all over the house. It’s even worse than having an exotic dancer “mark her territory” with glitter, I hear.
May you have the day you deserve!
