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Barb, I guess the root of the problem is that, if enough glue squeezes out to cover the tape (and you have no access to it until it’s dry), there’s a good chance that the tape under the glue will tear when you remove it because of how hard the dried glue is.
Have you ever tried “sizing” the end grain in the joint? The idea is that you brush a thin layer of thinned (say a half glue, half water mixture) over the end grain and let it dry before the final glue-up. The sizing partially seals the end grain so it doesn’t absorb so much of the final glue, and you don’t have to use as much. I usually do it, but I use un-thinned glue. I just brush on a very thin layer, scrape of any excess with the paddle on the end of my Rockler silicone glue brush. It mostly dries in a minute or two, and I can proceed with the actual glue up.
Another option is pre-finishing the interior faces (with or without also taping them). That should make any glue that makes it to the wood easier to remove.
Have you ever tried “sizing” the end grain in the joint? The idea is that you brush a thin layer of thinned (say a half glue, half water mixture) over the end grain and let it dry before the final glue-up. The sizing partially seals the end grain so it doesn’t absorb so much of the final glue, and you don’t have to use as much. I usually do it, but I use un-thinned glue. I just brush on a very thin layer, scrape of any excess with the paddle on the end of my Rockler silicone glue brush. It mostly dries in a minute or two, and I can proceed with the actual glue up.
Another option is pre-finishing the interior faces (with or without also taping them). That should make any glue that makes it to the wood easier to remove.
